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on Sept 8, 2015 4:21:03 GMT
Last Edit: Nov 23, 2021 15:24:54 GMT by biggles3: Added CS-15, CS-18 trigger voltages
Hi everyone,
I often get asked about the possibility of using old flash gear with digital cameras and thought it might be helpful to compile a list of Yashica/Contax units with their trigger voltages. Everyone will have heard the horror stories of people trying to use their trusty old Vivitar 283 in manual mode and obliterating the circuitry in their lovely new DSLR - early ones generated up to 340v!
As you probably know, anything above 12v can fry a modern DSLR or CSC - indeed with Canon, 6v is stated as the maximum safe trigger voltage. As we're not concerned about TTL metering with these old flash units, the sensible option is to employ an item like the Wein Safe-Sync Hot Shoe to Hot Shoe Regulator which can reduce a 400v trigger to a safe 6v or one of many other flash triggers that can do the same job. The Contax Flash Adapters made for the T series compact cameras - including the TVS-D digital camera - can also help if using a small digital camera with its own flash but wanting a greater light output.
To date, I've been able to glean the figures which are shown below:
Flash Trigger Voltages
Yashica CS-10: 48 volts CS-14: 253.5 volts
CS-15: 196.77 volts CS-18: 107 volts CS-20: 205.6 volts CS-110 AF Auto: CS-140: 4.09 volts CS-200: CS-201 Auto: 11.9 volts CS-202: 11 volts
CS-203 Auto: 11.2 volts CS-204 Auto: 10.6 volts CS-220 Auto: 10.5 volts
CS-220W SUPER: 8.6 volts CS-221 Auto: 5 volts CS-240 Auto: 7.2 volts CS-250 AF Auto: 4.3 volts ES-20: ES-220: MS-II: MS-20DX: 216 volts PRO-50DX: 213 volts
QUICK-LITE P 25: 208 volts DX 100mm f4 Ring Flash: 8.6 volts*
Contax RTF540: 5.6 volts TLA140: 4.7 volts TLA20: 4.2 volts TLA200: 4.1 volts TLA280: 3.6 volts TLA30: 4-8.9 volts TLA360: 3.2 volts ** TLA480: 4.8 volts **
* I can confirm from experience that the Yashica DX 100 f4 Dental Lens works perfectly with Olympus 4/3 DSLRs - certainly the E-1, E-3, E-30 and E-620. ** I have yet to test the TLA360 when used with the PS-220 and the TLA480 with the PS-130 just in case it has an effect on their usual trigger voltages; I'll report back shortly (26.06.17)
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on Sept 8, 2015 15:45:41 GMT
Posted: Sept 8, 2015 15:45:41 GMT
Although I have no practical experience of it, I do believe there's a gadget you can buy to fit into a hot shoe, which buffers the trigger voltage from the flash and thus protects the camera circuitry. I can't remember what it's called, or who makes it, but a 'net search is bound to throw it up.
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on Sept 10, 2015 12:35:57 GMT
Last Edit: Sept 11, 2015 0:17:14 GMT by biggles3
Rather than wait for new data, if available, I decided to buy a multimeter and test my units; those additional data are now included in the list. I don't seem to have the Yashica CS-140 so as yet I can't check it.
The Contax units, with the singular exception of the TLA30, all have trigger voltages that are below 6v which should mean that owners of these venerable old flash guns can use them in Manual mode with their precious DSLRs and CSCs, HOWEVER I am not guaranteeing their safety (some Canon compacts can't exceed 4v) and you should check your camera's user groups for guidance on trigger voltages. I will double check the RTF540 when operated from mains power and the TLA360 when used with the PS-220, though I can't see why there should be any difference. I have also just received a Contax item that I did not previously know existed - the TLA AC PS-130 - which is the mains adapter for the TLA480; when I have a step transformer (it was apparently only made in 100V 50/60Hz format) I'll check that too. Anyone here ever come across the PS-130 and used it?
One other minor point: the massive TLA480 was made by National and is nearly identical to their own 480 hammer-head. It seems that Contax specified improved circuitry and capacitors as it operates on a trigger voltage that is half that of the National unit.
By the way, owners of the TLA480 can use the National slave unit with their flash (they often appear on the US Ebay site and are very cheap); unlike the RTF540, Contax/Kyocera don't appear to have made one for the 480 even though the slave socket is present.
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on Sept 10, 2015 20:45:25 GMT
Posted: Sept 10, 2015 20:45:25 GMT
My CS-140 measures 4.09 volts.
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on Sept 11, 2015 0:15:44 GMT
Posted: Sept 11, 2015 0:15:44 GMT
My CS-140 measures 4.09 volts. Thank you very much - I have added your input into the list. Your contribution is greatly appreciated.
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on Sept 13, 2015 0:46:41 GMT
Posted: Sept 13, 2015 0:46:41 GMT
Hi everyone,
Just had to add to the list two further Yashica flash units - CS-10 and CS-14 - that I was unaware of; if anyone here can supply the trigger voltages, that would be great...
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on Sept 14, 2015 20:02:41 GMT
Last Edit: Sept 14, 2015 23:20:58 GMT by nrparsons
I've never tested my CS-14 before, because I only use it with my Electro 35 GSN and other film cameras. But I tested it just now in response to this thread, and YIKES! it came in at 253.5 volts!
Someone please test another copy and confirm or deny that high voltage. Until it's proven that I did something wrong, or there's something wrong with my copy, DO NOT use the CS-14 on a digital camera!
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on Sept 15, 2015 2:12:20 GMT
Posted: Sept 15, 2015 2:12:20 GMT
I've never tested my CS-14 before, because I only use it with my Electro 35 GSN and other film cameras. But I tested it just now in response to this thread, and YIKES! it came in at 253.5 volts! Someone please test another copy and confirm or deny that high voltage. Until it's proven that I did something wrong, or there's something wrong with my copy, DO NOT use the CS-14 on a digital camera! Thanks for taking the trouble to test your unit.
I'm inclined to believe your figure so, unless I hear otherwise, it is now added to the list. It is very reminiscent of the Vivitar 283...
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on Oct 19, 2015 16:59:12 GMT
Posted: Oct 19, 2015 16:59:12 GMT
Just added the CS-203 Auto to the list...
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on May 3, 2016 22:14:25 GMT
Posted: May 3, 2016 22:14:25 GMT
Hi everyone,
I have just taken delivery of a lovely boxed Pro-50DX and found the trigger voltage using AA batteries to be 213v and not 42.5v as previously understood.
Although very conventional (in 1960/70's terms) in appearance, the flash is rather nicely designed when it comes to its power sources: it takes 3 AA cells but recycles quickly; it also contains an AC power source, switch selectable between 110/115v and 220/240v. Although the high trigger voltage means that modern cameras are to be avoided, I'm looking forward to trying it with a FX-1...
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on Oct 19, 2016 11:48:44 GMT
Posted: Oct 19, 2016 11:48:44 GMT
Just added a flash I'd not previously seen to the list: CS-20.
I have no data on the flash trigger voltage - it's an unusual design for Yashica as it has the command dial on the top-plate of the flash head which appears to be fixed and so can't be bounced. It's on an Ebay listing but with the change in the exchange rate for the UK, I'm going to have to give this one a miss...
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on Jun 26, 2017 1:36:39 GMT
Posted: Jun 26, 2017 1:36:39 GMT
Yashika CS-221 auto : I measured 5 V between the centrsl contact and the side contact.
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on Jun 26, 2017 8:39:30 GMT
Posted: Jun 26, 2017 8:39:30 GMT
Yashika CS-221 auto : I measured 5 V between the centrsl contact and the side contact. Hello louis,
Welcome to the Forum!
Thank you very much for taking the trouble to measure the 221's voltage and letting us know. I have amended the data accordingly; the good news is that 5v, it can still be used safely with many DSLRs and CSCs.
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on Jun 28, 2017 19:45:59 GMT
Posted: Jun 28, 2017 19:45:59 GMT
Interesting subject, I do not know anything about Flash units except for the basic concepts, but for sure something, anything, returning 213v to the hot-shoe contacts (as described for PRO-50DX) is not right. I am not saying that your measurements are wrong, just that it makes no sense and is very dangerous, not only for the camera but for the person holding it. The higher voltage should go to the flash tube after the transformer elevates the voltage received from the capacitor charged by the battery. Taking the shot will make the shutter to trigger and close the circuit for the flash capacitor to discharge against the elevator transformer, any voltage returning to the camera is a failure in the design, especially if we talk about 213v. What could be the purpose of that?
I do not have any Yashica flash unit, but a Braun 320, tomorrow I will test and measure it just to check this voltage feedback thing.
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on Apr 23, 2018 11:06:13 GMT
Posted: Apr 23, 2018 11:06:13 GMT
Hi ariel,
It is surprising just how common trigger voltages in excess of 200V were on portable flashes back in the day.
The most popular independent flash ever made was the Vivitar 283 - a truly modular and thus versatile unit - but depending on the year of manufacture/serial number, it's voltages could run as high as 280 or more. Thankfully, camera such as the C/Y 35mm range could safely accommodate trigger voltages of up to 350 on most Yashicas and 450 on Contaxes.
What I find intriguing is that the capacitors of the older flash units - especially going right back to the Contax TLA 20/30 and RTF540 (best system flash made in its time) - still function perfectly after 40 years, even after decades of non-use, but if you forget to fire up an Olympus FL36R for a period of 16 weeks, it's capacitors often fail - and yes, you've guessed it, it costs about the same to repair it as to buy a new one...
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