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on Sept 9, 2019 22:35:14 GMT
Last Edit: Sept 9, 2019 22:39:04 GMT by lumiworx
I got a TL Super in pretty good overall condition, but it seems like it's frozen in mid-fire. The mirror is up with it's lever still moveable, the self timer won't release anything - or wind out - and the shutter plunger is depressed and won't spring back up if lifted. Pulling of the bottom cover doesn't offer anything mechanical that will budge. The advance roller is locked in position, and the rewind button would depress, but didn't loosen anything. Is there something specific that I can try to move/unlock/oil to complete the firing cycle?
In an old thread there was a glimmer of hope, but it wasn't too specific on where the exact parts/pieces could be accessed... "I fixed the problem this afternoon. The mirror lock switch was loose, and inside the front the mirror locking lever was jammed upward. I lowered the locking lever, the shutter fired, and thereafter all was well."
I bought this as a dirt cheap 'photo model', so if it's toast, I'm not out much, but I'll poke and prod a bit if there's a chance to unlock it.
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on Sept 10, 2019 3:07:56 GMT
Last Edit: Sept 10, 2019 3:15:33 GMT by ridgeblue99
You might read through this discussion about sticking mirrors to see if any match your problem. www.flickr.com/groups/yashica_tl_electro/discuss/72157614305190384/ I suspect the self timer is stuck, maybe due to lack of lubrication, or the old stuff has dried up. You might want to try some lighter fluid dripped in from the bottom (put in only a couple drops at a time), then turn the camera back upright to let it drain out the bottom. Looking at the photos in this discussion www.ifixit.com/Answers/View/55023/Film+advance+and+shutter+will+not+work+on+my+Yashica+camera in particular this photo d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/igi/5iNsLE3CS2ZCFUQh.full I see in the cluster of levers on the left side (film advance gearing) a small lever under the large sickle shaped one. See if you can move this, it might trigger the gear train. It goes something like this: In the upper left corner you see a catch bar that engages the pawls in the winding cam just below it. It is in the stop position in the photo, and should rotate to the ready position (about 180° clock-wise). What is holding it back is the small tab built into the cam that is riding on a lever with a long tongue. That lever is geared to the shaft of the self timer where there is a brass transfer plate containing a stud controlling the mirror release lever (long, dark grey sickle shaped lever). The rotation of the shaft allows the stud to move the mirror release lever into position. In order to get the small lever moving, the self timer needs to run off. Swing the large lever towards the front of the camera (away from you as you see in the view), and hopefully the ST will run. If not, you may have to push on the steel stud (in a clock-wise direction) on the brass transfer plate to get the ST started. Once the small lever has moved far enough, it will release the winder cam to complete the shutter action. The mirror should come down, and stay down until the film advance is wound again, and the shutter is released. I hope that's clear enough. Been a while since I looked at one of these, and mine is boxed up at the moment. A drop of 3-In-One All-Temp Silicone wouldn't hurt after you get things running again. Put it on a small artist paint brush, work it in around the gearing, and then let it air dry before you put the bottom back on. PF |
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on Sept 10, 2019 5:56:47 GMT
Posted: Sept 10, 2019 5:56:47 GMT
Sounds like the shutter hasn't completed its travel. Can you see the edge of the curtain? If so, try nudging it in its normal direction of travel. I'm not familiar with the model to be specific but it's a common problem with horizontal cloth shutters.
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Group: Administrator
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Status: Failed treatment for L.B.A. and G.A.S,
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on Sept 10, 2019 7:00:16 GMT
Posted: Sept 10, 2019 7:00:16 GMT
Thanks much for the links and info PF... I'll go through those and see what I can do. peter_r ... I did have a look at the shutter curtains before popping off the bottom, and as luck would have it - the curtains seems to be somewhere in the center of their cycles, with no metal showing at all. I'm not sure if that means the 1st curtain is stuck at it's pulled position, or if the 2nd curtain is at the very end of travel, but there's nothing to nudge with and only curtain cloth showing. If this body was 1 out of 238,562 Pentax SP's, i'd probably try probing for something to push and risk the curtain, but I'll hold off on that until it's at the last resort stage. My old pinkies aren't as agile as they used to be, and TL-Super curtains aren't very plentiful if I rip these. :) |
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on Sept 11, 2019 3:30:46 GMT
Posted: Sept 11, 2019 3:30:46 GMT
Sounds like the shutter hasn't completed its travel. Can you see the edge of the curtain? If so, try nudging it in its normal direction of travel. I'm not familiar with the model to be specific but it's a common problem with horizontal cloth shutters. You know, the more I think about it (I originally dismissed this as a possibility), and considering the direction of rotation of the winder cam, you may be right about that. I got that direction backwards, and it actually is in the released position.
PF
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Status: Failed treatment for L.B.A. and G.A.S,
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on Sept 16, 2019 23:01:19 GMT
Posted: Sept 16, 2019 23:01:19 GMT
I had some time to revisit the lockup issue, after reading and doing some further searches. I managed to get the self-timer unwound and got it to 'click', but that was the only result. Nothing connected to the timer mechanics released either the shutter or mirror. Every lever, gear, and sprocket/latch, that was frozen before remains as it was, and I only got one 'cam' with a slotted foot that was hidden away to budge and free it up. Otherwise, there's nothing apparent I can do with anything that's exposed with the bottom plate removed.
I'll make a guess that the gears and/or mechanicals that are deeper into the body have lube issues. A more specific guess is that it's tied to the mirror return and would require a full teardown to fix. At any rate, it isn't a huge priority and the meter seems to be dead, so... it will be a stand-in model, extra-clunky rear lens cap, and parts donor - if needed.
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