Wobbly hood on ML 2.8/135C

I've used 3 different methods for this same issue on several lenses of my own. None of them has required the lens to be disassembled. Only the last one is permanent too, so you can rework the first two until the fit is right. Which one to use may differ on how much wobble space you need to correct for.

1. Best: Use a ponytail elastic hair band from the beauty isle at the drug store. These are cheap, come in multi-packs, and in lots of colors. Here's a shot of one on a Bronica 100-220mm Zoom. The hood is extended, and the hair band around it at the trailing edge of the hood is the heavier duty size - maybe, 1.5mm thick - and has been pre-stretched to make it large enough to fit, since that hood is maybe 110mm in diameter. These can be used on much smaller diameter lenses too, since they come in several sizes and really stretch quite a bit. I roll it down past the rear lip of the barrel-end to cap the lens.

2. Next best, on smaller diameter lenses: Use a solid, one-piece silicone wrist band and cut to size or leave it full width. I also use these as temporary lens grips until I can get proper replacements. There's two ways to use these... as a stop-ring behind the hood (like the Bronica, above), or as a spacer/drag ring that's wrapped around the barrel - to slide the hood over it and 'compress' the wristband in place to hold the hood by friction. There's an online seller with adult/kid/toddler sizes, that I've bought from before, and they sell blank bands (multiple colors), in 47/55/65mm diameters. These stretch a fair amount, but are tougher to move than the hair bands... but really stay in place when set.

3. Takes the most work: Use black velvet flocking paper or fabric to reline the inside of the hood - assuming that it's not too wobbly and takes less than 0.5mm to take up the slack. This can be bought at art supply stores in small sheets, and can come with or without an adhesive backing. I prefer the paper, and use double sided carpet tape that I can use to create a long non-sticky leader/tongue by peeling off some of the adhesive. I can roll up the flocking paper with the tape attached - but with the backing unpeeled - and then bend the leader out at an angle past the edge. Once I've slid the 'cylinder' I've assembled into position I can pull on the leader to let the adhesive come in contact and stick to the inner hood, a millimeter at a time. A positive side affect is that the inner side is now totally non-reflective.

Thanks a lot, guys!