Group: Member
Post: 6 (0 liked)
Join date: June 2017
Status:
|
|
on Aug 5, 2017 17:58:58 GMT
Posted: Aug 5, 2017 17:58:58 GMT
Hi All quick question i have a yashica 635 i develop my own film at home. i have found that my negs are turning out to be greyscale rather than black and white. i am using ilford F PAN 50 ASA. and ifosol 3 chems. i am using a light meter so i know my exposure and apeture are correct well i thing thay are. any ideas where im going wrong thanks
|
|
Group: Administrator
Post: 1,011 (77 liked)
Join date: January 2014
Status:
|
|
on Aug 6, 2017 3:11:36 GMT
Last Edit: Aug 6, 2017 3:13:26 GMT by ridgeblue99
I can't attest to your developing, John, as I haven't done any in years so I don't remember what causes the greyscale, other than possibly bad exposure, or exhausted developer. You could let us know your developing routine so someone else who uses the Ilfosol can see if there is a fault with it.
That said, you can check your shutter and meter by doing two things.
On a nice sunny day, take a meter reading and see if it agrees with what would be a Sunny-16 exposure (shutter speed set at ISO box speed, and aperture set at f16). If you get something other than 1/50 @ f16, then your meter is off by that much.
If that is not the case, then it's time to do a film check of the shutter. Shoot a roll with a range of light (bright sun, shade, and shadow), varying the aperture by +1 stop, match meter, and -1 stop for each type of light. That should take up half the roll, leaving you six more frames where you can vary the shutter speed to -2 stops, -1 stop, match meter, +1 stop, and +2 stops.
Okay, that only took five frames, so now you can take a selfie.
One way or another you should see either a proper progression through the stops, or a bias toward over or under exposure. You may also want to do a dry run, without film in the camera, using all the apertures, and shutter speeds while the back is open to ensure that all the apertures and shutter speeds are working correctly.
Let us know how things work out.
PF
|
|
Group: Member
Post: 426 (97 liked)
Join date: March 2017
Status:
|
|
on Aug 6, 2017 8:06:22 GMT
Posted: Aug 6, 2017 8:06:22 GMT
|
|
Group: Member
Post: 6 (0 liked)
Join date: June 2017
Status:
|
|
on Aug 6, 2017 14:54:53 GMT
Posted: Aug 6, 2017 14:54:53 GMT
Hi All thanks for all the info i still have half a film left to take i will do some experimenting. I will do some checks with my nikon D3100 to see if im gettig same light readings as from light meter i have been using. Answers to a few questions. No only used Ilford PanF 50 ASA up to now. No not used other developer No not used other meter yet as above i will double check readings with my DSLR. thanks again i will let you know the outcome later. John
|
|
Group: Administrator
Post: 1,011 (77 liked)
Join date: January 2014
Status:
|
|
on Aug 7, 2017 1:41:10 GMT
Posted: Aug 7, 2017 1:41:10 GMT
When you go to check your meter against the DSLR, John, make sure the angle of view of the camera lens is close to the same as what you get with the meter. If they are radically different, it will be like taking a reading with a spot meter and then an averaging meter. They just won't agree.
PF
|
|