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on Apr 5, 2023 19:48:33 GMT
Posted: Apr 5, 2023 19:48:33 GMT
Which one has less purple fringing? Have an 28 ml (second or first version) that tends to have this error. Except this error its evenly sharp. Not razor sharp as the dx 50 1.7 though. Do use them on the eos 2000d.
The ml seem to be close to the ds(b) I suppose its just another mount or coatings at best...
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on Apr 5, 2023 22:45:58 GMT
Last Edit: Apr 5, 2023 23:02:55 GMT by lumiworx
Hello bluedxca93 and welcome to the Forum! It might help to unpack and separate a couple of things in order to answer the questions you have. I'll assume that by "purple fringing", you mean CA, or Chromatic Aberration, and that's not tied to any negative effects solved by either of the common types of coatings - HR (older, High Reflectant) or AR (newer, Anti-Reflective) - or even for uncoated lenses. CA occurs when there's an inconsistency in the alignment of light rays of individual color spectrum ranges as they converge on and hit the focal plane. Typical case of CA... this shows the results from a Yashica Yashikor 135mm f/2.8 in M42 mount on a Sony A7R full-frame, paired with the corrected results in Lightroom v5.6. CA is introduced to some degree by the optical design, as a combination of glass types and the layout of elements and groups of the individual/cemented lenses. It is corrected 'in-lens', by using advanced designs and better glass formulas that are specifically designed to minimise or eliminate the problem. Generally, that means additional expenses for lens makers, and those are often found in the higher priced non-budget lines offered by the brand. Unfortunately it can also be prohibitively expensive on some focal lengths under certain designs, but it's usually better controlled when there is a premier line (or two) above the generic/base line. It's likely that there are cases I'll miss something, but basically each mount type sold by Yashica (and most other OEM's of the same periods) had at least two levels of quality over the years. The higher the level, the better overall build and optical quality, and the higher levels benefitted with better designs and better - or multiple - coatings. In M42, Yashica had at least three lines with different coatings... DS (single HR, or none), DX (single/double HR), DS-M (early AR), and in C/Y there were even more, in both HR and AR coatings, or none at all... ML (AR), MC (HR and AR), DSB (HR or none), and YUS (usually, none). Generally, the newer a lens is, the better it's likely to be -BUT- there will be exceptions. Thorium was used in some focal lengths, in some lines (radioactive elements), which affected the transmitted optical properties, and cost-cutting strategies could lower the optical quality too much (i.e., Yashica MC Zooms). In short, a DS or DX lens can produce inferior results compared to the later ML version. Another 'correction' has to do with the aperture. A wide open lens is far more likely to exhibit major CA issues, than the exact same lens will when it's closed down by one full stop. There will be cases where 1 1/2 stops can eliminate CA completely. Personally, I rarely ever shoot any wide-angle lens anywhere close to wide open, and specifically, I never have a single CA issue with any ML 28mm I own... and my guess would be that I'd have 5+ of both the original chrome-edged diamond-gripped early models, and the later all-black rectangular grip versions.
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on Apr 6, 2023 3:55:41 GMT
Last Edit: Apr 6, 2023 3:57:43 GMT by bluedxca93
Here a photo to show a bit the amount pf cas of the 28 ml . The 135 dx is a good lens, had +7 applied? wllhen I use dxo and then gmic unpurple plugin : Had two 135 dx which the first one was damaged the entire focusing mechansim (stuck), the second one works fine. For the 50 1.7dx had a silver one which was inferior to a fungy 50 1.9 ds. The 50 1.7 dx black one i have now needed a thinner adapter but its then almost as sharp as the 50 1.9 ds while having so nuch better contrast so i kept the 50 1.9 dx. The 50 1.7 dx delivers better performance than the canon kitzoom. For the 28 ml its nearly as good as the modern kitzoom, perhaps i just got a bad or average copy .. did the 28 dx use sdingle or double hr?
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on Apr 6, 2023 18:41:08 GMT
Posted: Apr 6, 2023 18:41:08 GMT
For the 28 ml its nearly as good as the modern kitzoom, perhaps i just got a bad or average copy .. did the 28 dx use sdingle or double hr?It's certainly possible that any production run might have a few with reversed or faulty elements, or were badly assembled. There are particular models that are known to have wide swings in sample quality, but I don't recall anything specifically about the 28mm of any series. If I have a 28mm DX or even their spec sheets, they'd be in storage... but count the additional colors in the reflections. If you see a second one with a yellow tint, and a third that's pink/peach, then it's likely double coated. One Yellow-ish and a regular 'untinted' reflection -or- all yellow-ish, would likely be a single.
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on Apr 7, 2023 17:48:28 GMT
Last Edit: Apr 7, 2023 18:29:58 GMT by bluedxca93
I did now some testing, it seems that silver metallic surfaces get a purple glow and that black lines on a loght background shows abberations
example here:
For far away objects i get some slight but noticeable blur effect if i use the original inifinty focus setting, once i use a setting for not so far away objects it gets better.
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on Apr 7, 2023 20:02:25 GMT
Last Edit: Apr 7, 2023 20:17:43 GMT by lumiworx
I did now some testing, it seems that silver metallic surfaces get a purple glow and that black lines on a loght background shows abberations Extreme contrast in any subject matter can magnify a minor, but controllable flaw, into a major issue. Lens choice is just as important as exposure values, iris f-stop size setting, and even whether you're using a lens hood. They can all interact in a way that is out of balance and cause an issue where you then need to correct the result after the shot is captured. It also makes a difference in what the image is captured to. CA ordinarily can't be 'fixed' when a shot is on film, and when it is present in digital captures, not all software is equal in how well it does certain tasks. That's compounded even further if you're shooting RAW files, and you prefer all of your post-processing to be done in a single software application. DxO has strengths that Lightroom doesn't and vice-versa, and the same goes on down the line with other paid and free software. If you're committed to only doing digital and you're willing to 'fix' the flaws in hardware/lenses - either legacy stuff that's adapted, or native digital gear that isn't the highest quality - then it might mean comparing software to see what corrects issues better, over the entire range of 'what could go wrong' situations. It also helps to understand what works on film and where you learn to correct it in-camera whenever that's possible. One note that might help in some situations... when the distance between you and the subject is very short (like the drawing shot used above), it's better to choose a suitable mid-length lens and "focus with your feet" (versus, ' zoom with your feet'), than a wide or telephoto lens, to make framing easier by hardware. When the entire area in focus would already be on a flat plane, extreme focal lengths can cause more issues than they'd solve And, never underestimate a good macro lens that is more likely to already have low-dispersion glass elements to automagically minimize CA. It can also be used to great effect outside of it's macro range, as a 'normal' lens. For far away objects i get some slight but noticeable blur effect if i use the original inifinty focus setting, once i use a setting for not so far away objects it gets better.
There's a term and technique to explain what you're seeing. Critical focusing involves both distance focus setting and depth of field, along with your interpretation of what part of the frame and what particular object(s) are most important to be clearly in focus - and- how 'deep' and at what depth that focus area needs to be. This is also an area that relies on the choice of f-stop value to properly capture that desired range. Personally, I start with an f-stop of 5.6 as a starting point before I even point the camera, and increase or decrease the f-stops to sweeten the focus center so it falls wherever it needs to be. I almost always use a tripod at any shutter speed too, but that's a personal preference for me.
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