Yashica 300 Auto Focus Camera and Lens Test
Oct 7, 2014 3:30:59 GMT
on Oct 7, 2014 3:30:59 GMT
Last Edit: Oct 11, 2014 3:37:16 GMT by ridgeblue99
Got this camera with the standard lens really cheap as part of a two camera lot, then found the bigger zoom at a low price because no on else bid on it, so the set cost me less than $35 with shipping.
The camera body is about the same size as my Nikon N90s (minus the add-on battery pack), but a bit lighter. It also has that same "no sharp edges" styling, and is made of polycarbonate. The two auto-focus lenses are power zooms, in the 28-70mm and 70-210mm ranges. AF can be turned off via a switch on the side of the camera lens mount, and the Power Zoom is controlled by a ring on each lens that also acts as a switch for manual control by pushing it forward (Power) or pulling it back towards the camera (Manual). Zoom speed is controlled by how far you turn the ring. It's a nice feature, but I preferred using the manual mode because it was faster. The AF lenses from earlier models can also be used on the 300.
Auto focus worked well on both lenses, but I didn't get a chance to check out the Macro mode on the big zoom, as I ran out of film before thinking about it.
I had a bit of a gaffe while first using the longer zoom. I was in the middle of changing lenses when I heard a train approaching. I wanted a shot from a particular angle to the Solitude Interlocker, and had to run to get into position. First thing I noticed was the AF wasn't working, so I quickly put it in Manual, and started banging away as the train passed by. I took a few more shots before I noticed that the aperture readout was missing from the LCD. So I took the lens off, and put it back on, and everything started working again. Unfortunately, even though the camera was advancing the film, the shutter did not operate during the time the lens was mis-mounted, so I got eleven blanks in the middle of the roll. Just wish the camera would have quit operating until I remounted the lens, instead of letting me burn so many frames. Something to look out for in the future.
The camera has four operating modes: Programmed Auto; Aperture Priority Auto; Shutter Priority Auto; and Manual. Separate dials on top of the battery chamber/grip control aperture and shutter when in manual, while in either priority mode only one dial is used. One can set the Focus Range when in Auto to reduce the hunting time on the lens, and speed up operation. There are four Drive modes (Single, Continuous, Self Timer, and Trap-Focus [shutter fires as soon as the lens auto-focuses]), and the camera uses a 2CR5 Lithium battery housed in the grip to power everything. There is a mid-roll rewind switch on the bottom of the camera, with auto rewind at the end of the roll. It has an AE Lock switch, and one of the control dials operates the +/- two stop (in half stops) exposure compensation when in Priority mode. There is a three-pin hot-shoe on top of the prism housing for either a CS-240 (two pin) or CS-250 (three pin) flash unit, along with a built-in pop-up flash.
The viewfinder is nice and large, with framing lines for the included "Panoramic" adapter housed in the film door of the camera. The problem with that arrangement is your entire roll will be in "Panoramic" framing, as it can't be changed once the film is loaded. Might have made some sense when you could buy 12 exposure rolls, but not anymore, unless you roll your own. Even then, how many times will you need more than one or two exposures in Panoramic mode? Easier to just shoot what you want in full frame, and crop later. At least the frame lines are there to guide you.
All in all, the camera operated as designed, with only my rush to change lenses messing things up. All controls are in good places, and easy to use. There is a decent amount of information in the viewfinder, and you get a little Beep when the AF locks on. With only the 2CR5 Lithium battery pack, there is not as much extra weight as in some other cameras that might use eight AA cells. The only issue is the Focus and Zoom rings have a rubberized construction that tends to bleed, and need to be cleaned off with alcohol. This may only occur over a long time span (as it hasn't needed it done again since the first time I did it over a month ago), but when it needs cleaning, you have to be careful not to remove the distance markings on the focus ring, as they are only printed on.
This was the last Yashica/Kyocera SLR, introduced in 1993.
PF
Some Sample shots from the roll of Kodak Gold 100 (exp 03/2006) I used for the test. More photos and commentary at the link.
Jennings Creek 2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Steps by br1078phot, on Flickr
Reflecting Pool by br1078phot, on Flickr
Amongst The Living by br1078phot, on Flickr
Sun On Barn by br1078phot, on Flickr
Yashica 300 Auto Focus Kit by br1078phot, on Flickr
www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157648397787216/
The camera body is about the same size as my Nikon N90s (minus the add-on battery pack), but a bit lighter. It also has that same "no sharp edges" styling, and is made of polycarbonate. The two auto-focus lenses are power zooms, in the 28-70mm and 70-210mm ranges. AF can be turned off via a switch on the side of the camera lens mount, and the Power Zoom is controlled by a ring on each lens that also acts as a switch for manual control by pushing it forward (Power) or pulling it back towards the camera (Manual). Zoom speed is controlled by how far you turn the ring. It's a nice feature, but I preferred using the manual mode because it was faster. The AF lenses from earlier models can also be used on the 300.
Auto focus worked well on both lenses, but I didn't get a chance to check out the Macro mode on the big zoom, as I ran out of film before thinking about it.
I had a bit of a gaffe while first using the longer zoom. I was in the middle of changing lenses when I heard a train approaching. I wanted a shot from a particular angle to the Solitude Interlocker, and had to run to get into position. First thing I noticed was the AF wasn't working, so I quickly put it in Manual, and started banging away as the train passed by. I took a few more shots before I noticed that the aperture readout was missing from the LCD. So I took the lens off, and put it back on, and everything started working again. Unfortunately, even though the camera was advancing the film, the shutter did not operate during the time the lens was mis-mounted, so I got eleven blanks in the middle of the roll. Just wish the camera would have quit operating until I remounted the lens, instead of letting me burn so many frames. Something to look out for in the future.
The camera has four operating modes: Programmed Auto; Aperture Priority Auto; Shutter Priority Auto; and Manual. Separate dials on top of the battery chamber/grip control aperture and shutter when in manual, while in either priority mode only one dial is used. One can set the Focus Range when in Auto to reduce the hunting time on the lens, and speed up operation. There are four Drive modes (Single, Continuous, Self Timer, and Trap-Focus [shutter fires as soon as the lens auto-focuses]), and the camera uses a 2CR5 Lithium battery housed in the grip to power everything. There is a mid-roll rewind switch on the bottom of the camera, with auto rewind at the end of the roll. It has an AE Lock switch, and one of the control dials operates the +/- two stop (in half stops) exposure compensation when in Priority mode. There is a three-pin hot-shoe on top of the prism housing for either a CS-240 (two pin) or CS-250 (three pin) flash unit, along with a built-in pop-up flash.
The viewfinder is nice and large, with framing lines for the included "Panoramic" adapter housed in the film door of the camera. The problem with that arrangement is your entire roll will be in "Panoramic" framing, as it can't be changed once the film is loaded. Might have made some sense when you could buy 12 exposure rolls, but not anymore, unless you roll your own. Even then, how many times will you need more than one or two exposures in Panoramic mode? Easier to just shoot what you want in full frame, and crop later. At least the frame lines are there to guide you.
All in all, the camera operated as designed, with only my rush to change lenses messing things up. All controls are in good places, and easy to use. There is a decent amount of information in the viewfinder, and you get a little Beep when the AF locks on. With only the 2CR5 Lithium battery pack, there is not as much extra weight as in some other cameras that might use eight AA cells. The only issue is the Focus and Zoom rings have a rubberized construction that tends to bleed, and need to be cleaned off with alcohol. This may only occur over a long time span (as it hasn't needed it done again since the first time I did it over a month ago), but when it needs cleaning, you have to be careful not to remove the distance markings on the focus ring, as they are only printed on.
This was the last Yashica/Kyocera SLR, introduced in 1993.
PF
Some Sample shots from the roll of Kodak Gold 100 (exp 03/2006) I used for the test. More photos and commentary at the link.
Jennings Creek 2 by br1078phot, on Flickr
Steps by br1078phot, on Flickr
Reflecting Pool by br1078phot, on Flickr
Amongst The Living by br1078phot, on Flickr
Sun On Barn by br1078phot, on Flickr
Yashica 300 Auto Focus Kit by br1078phot, on Flickr
www.flickr.com/photos/7699588@N07/sets/72157648397787216/
