![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Group: Member
Post: 6 (0 liked)
Join date: May 2014
Status:
|
|
on May 17, 2014 23:00:14 GMT
Last Edit: May 17, 2014 23:03:41 GMT by ki
I bought an electro 35 (first version with gold contacts) which was sold as working fine but has multiple issues. I've git a full refund from the seller but he does not want it back (shipping might be too expensive). So I do not want to dump it and am trying to get it working again.
The first issue was, that the shutter was oily and did not open at all. I've cleaned it with lighter fluid and it works nearly fine now. But then I realized another problem. The shutter only operates in 1/500 sec or in bulb. If the shutter is set to auto it operates 1/500 if there is sufficient light. But if the yellow "slow" light is turning on the shutter itself operates in bulb: It opens and stays open until you release the shutter button (and the yellow light stays on all the time the shutter is pressed too).
In flash mode it behaves like bulb and the "slow" light glows all the time the shutter is pressed.
Bulb just works like bulb should, but here also the yellow light stays on all the time the shutter is pressed (but only once until the shutter is cocked again).
Also the battery check light on the frame counter does not work, only the green light at the Bat Check Button works.
I have opened the top cover but could not find any corroded cables. I only saw that there is no light for the frame counter at all.
Does anybody has an idea what could be the problem?
Is it normal that the yellow light stays on all the time?
Is it possible that there have been electors without the light on the frame counter?
regards!
|
|
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star_red.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star_red.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star_red.png) ![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star_red.png)
Group: Administrator
Post: 389 (85 liked)
Join date: January 2014
Status:
|
|
on May 18, 2014 1:15:47 GMT
Last Edit: May 18, 2014 1:17:27 GMT by greyscale
The first versions did not have the battery check in the frame counter, that started with the GT and GSN. The rest of the symptoms seem indicative of the POD ("Pad of Death") syndrome, which is not as fatal as it sounds. This forum thread at RFF by group member Russ Cisco (b1bmsgt) explains it quite well. www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66696
|
|
Deleted
Group: Member
Post: 0 ( liked)
Join date: January 1970
Status:
|
|
on May 18, 2014 13:05:24 GMT
Posted: May 18, 2014 13:05:24 GMT
Ki, welcome to the forum! In case you're located in the US, I would indeed suggest your sending the camera to Russ. He's a genius when it comes to fixing and refurbishing Yashica electro rangefinders. On Markus Keinaths excellent DIY link collection - Camera Repair Links - I just found a repair manual you might want to have a look at: Repair Manual Electro 35regards Michael
|
|
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Group: Member
Post: 6 (0 liked)
Join date: May 2014
Status:
|
|
on May 18, 2014 16:00:15 GMT
Posted: May 18, 2014 16:00:15 GMT
Great so I have a path to go at least. Thank you so far, I will report here when I got it repaired (hopefully).
|
|
![*](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/stars/star.png)
Group: Member
Post: 6 (0 liked)
Join date: May 2014
Status:
|
|
on May 18, 2014 21:51:50 GMT
Last Edit: May 18, 2014 21:52:07 GMT by ki
You guys are awesome! Got it working. I've put a 2 mm thick piece of cardboard without disassembling the front plate in it. Now it "klongs" very tough, you can even feel it when you put your finger underneath the light meter.
|
|