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on Jun 13, 2020 2:20:48 GMT
Last Edit: Jun 23, 2020 19:39:43 GMT by lumiworx
As biggles3 has posted before, they do exist, and this isn't the first one I've seen. After looking at this up close and comparing it to the 1.9c - both on and off camera - it certainly behaves and renders close enough that I'd guess these also came from Chinon, and are most likely a more accurately measured focal length than the 1.9c, with a new faceplate carrying an old family type name on the ring. Stopping it down just by 1 stop is enough to vastly improve this (just like the 1.9c), and the build and cosmetics look the same - without actually using calipers to actually measure everything. This was part of a 7 lens lot and it has been neglected a bit and needs some internal cleanup. Has anyone opened up any of the f/2's, f/1.9's? This one doesn't want to unscrew like a standard Yashica ML, and I'd prefer to access it from the front and not have to dismantle the mounted end.
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on Jun 13, 2020 19:18:52 GMT
Posted: Jun 13, 2020 19:18:52 GMT
Hi lumiworx,
I wish I could help but all I could do was remove the front bezel and then get stumped as I could find no way in from the front. For some reason, Yashica lenses give me more trouble than Zeiss when it comes to unscrewing the mount; even using a softening agent for the glue and my best JIS screwdrivers, I have been defeated by one screw so often and wrecked the screwdrivers in the process that I now give up on meeting firm resistance.
I fear you have no alternative but to go in from the mount. As you will have seen from simply removing the bezel, the construction of the DX and ML 50 f2s is quite different.
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on Jun 13, 2020 22:43:17 GMT
Posted: Jun 13, 2020 22:43:17 GMT
From the Outside, it looks like an ordinary Yashica ML 50mm F2 Lens...albeit the "DX" Moniker is quite rare...i assume, it's more plastic than the 50/F2 ML?
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on Jun 14, 2020 0:38:21 GMT
Last Edit: Jun 14, 2020 0:47:21 GMT by lumiworx
Hi lumiworx, I wish I could help but all I could do was remove the front bezel and then get stumped as I could find no way in from the front. For some reason, Yashica lenses give me more trouble than Zeiss when it comes to unscrewing the mount; even using a softening agent for the glue and my best JIS screwdrivers, I have been defeated by one screw so often and wrecked the screwdrivers in the process that I now give up on meeting firm resistance.
I fear you have no alternative but to go in from the mount. As you will have seen from simply removing the bezel, the construction of the DX and ML 50 f2s is quite different.
Thanks... In a word, "arrrgghh"! That's what I figured would be the case, but then again, processes change over time and I thought there might be a slim chance with it being the newest penny in the bank. It has some light fungus, but it looks cleanable, so I'm really hoping to get it cleaned before it's too late. Some times ya gotta do whatever works. From the Outside, it looks like an ordinary Yashica ML 50mm F2 Lens...albeit the "DX" Moniker is quite rare...i assume, it's more plastic than the 50/F2 ML? Well, at first blush it looks like there's just as much plastic as the 1.9c or the standard ML 1.9 - however - there are some differences that show up once they are weighed and measured. In no particular order, and not including any front or rear caps:
| Ounces | Grams | Height (fr. rim, to r. block | Width (at mid-barrel) | DX f/2
| 5.57
| 158.0
| 39.74mm | 58.35mm | ML f/1.9
| 5.50
| 155.9
| 39.38mm | 58.34mm | ML 1.9c
| 4.02 | 114.0 | 40.87mm | 60.00mm |
I measured them all with calipers while they were collapsed at infinity focus. I don't know what accounts for the 3grams difference within .36mm of height, except the raw weight of a slightly taller mid-barrel, so I'm guessing that the optical diagram is likely the same as the standard ML 1.9 lens. My initial thought about it being close to the 1.9c is obviously wrong when you compare the numbers. At this point I've started the UV process on the glass to kill whatever is left in there. I'll let that sit overnight to give it a maximum dose of light. I use a small germicidal fluorescent bulb for these, so they are effective and fairly quick. Once it's done it's part, I'll grab some drivers and see how to get inside. It's not going to get any better than it is withought a little help, so I might as well give it a try. EDIT to add: lenslover ... I have several of the f/2 versions, but their exact locations eluded me for the moment, so I just used both the f/1.9 models instead.
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on Jun 21, 2020 7:33:44 GMT
Last Edit: Jun 21, 2020 7:35:03 GMT by lenslover
Thanks for the Infos, Lumiworx, appreciated. OTOH, the ML 50/1.9 is being considered oridinary as the worst of all Nifty-Fiftys from Yashica, so i'd use only the ML 50/1.7 or for compactness, the ML 50/F2. The ML 50/1.9c (C for Cosina, i assume, or compact) is the worst of them. I've bought my original 50mm F2 ML Yashica with my Yashica FX-3 Super 2000, back into the early 90's. My 2nd 50 F2 ML was dirt-cheap, 10 bucks at eBay, about some couple years ago.
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on Jun 22, 2020 20:48:26 GMT
Last Edit: Jun 23, 2020 19:45:24 GMT by lumiworx
Well... I've finally had a chance to try again at getting into the DX to do some cleanup. It turns out that the front rim/ring assembly was just being stubborn, and it does unscrew just as the ML 1.4 does. There were no holes or slots anywhere to insert a lens spanner to get the front element block out, so after some gentle attempts at simple unscrewing, it wouldn't 'back itself out', but it did turn. With a #10 scalpel (much better and far cheaper than X-Acto knives) I found a separation line to slowly pop out the block. It's a compression fit with several little teethlets holding it behind a ridge at the edge, so it wouldn't just fall out on it's own. The UV did it's job on the fungus, and it was an easy clean off, but with the block out it showed there was also some separation on the cemented elements and it was beginning to fog in the void it left. Probably not the best design, as it seems like the glued-up block is press-fit into the molded black plastic to the point that it's impossible to push/pull the glass out. I'd hesitate to say the plastic was molded around the glass, but that's how tight it was. As it stands now, the glass is clearer and still pretty sharp after a quick test, but I'm guessing the separation issues will get worse. For now, it's nice to have for it's rarity, but I wouldn't rush out to buy one as a shooter. The f/2 would be a better choice, and a lot easier to find. I may do a short and simple shooting test to see if there's some characteristics produced by the DX that would have made it evolutionary or show any improvements, but I'm not expecting to see anything terribly different. The lens, after disassembly:
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on Jun 23, 2020 13:00:22 GMT
Posted: Jun 23, 2020 13:00:22 GMT
Nice work lumiworx,
I'd be surprised if you see much difference between the performance of the DX and ML 50 f2s. I've quite a few examples of both and as a rule, never was able to spot any difference in IQ. The ML 50mm is a much under-rated lens as quite a few reviews have concluded; it's just a pity that build quality became suspect in later batches.
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on Jun 23, 2020 16:39:42 GMT
Posted: Jun 23, 2020 16:39:42 GMT
Slower lenses -- of whatever focal length -- are typically given the "cold shoulder" as inferior in terms of quality, simply because they are less expensive. In fact, the opposite is frequently the truth. That's OK with me, as I can find smaller and lighter lenses at give-away prices.
P.S., PLEASE don't let the secret out!!!
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on Jun 23, 2020 21:28:34 GMT
Posted: Jun 23, 2020 21:28:34 GMT
For slower lenses being overlooked, I thinks that's right for the most part - but - looking back now, I don't think we should blame ourselves for thinking that way whenever/if-ever we did. Just like the notion that a specific focal length gets used for a particular photo type, or is suited to a certain subject... we've all been fed the same marketing hype to upsell us into the next cost bracket, or to buy something 'special'. Sometypes there's some merit behind it, but that's not always the case.
There are things that seems to get lost when considering lens speeds when one focal length has two (or more) available. The faster lens will almost always have a considerably thinner depth of field than the slower one. If you're the type of shooter who pays attention to that sort of thing, it can make a world of difference when that's an important factor. There's also the case where the faster speed works against you. If you want thin DoF in a photo, and it's high-noon in summer and you're outside without shade... short of having a number of ND filters handy, you can run out of 'ISO floor' when you can't buy ISO/ASA 8 or 25 anymore, or your digital is locking you in at 200 or above. There are some real benefits to having a slower lens that get forgotten, until it bites you in the rear and you don't have one to use.
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on Jun 24, 2020 1:18:23 GMT
Last Edit: Jun 24, 2020 1:19:18 GMT by xkaes
I've been hyped lots of times and in many ways. Fortunately, most of the time it never worked. My favorite is when I was in grad school in New Haven and my trusty old Konica Auto S2 bit the dust. The incredible, 45mm, fixed-lens basically fell off. I got some wonderful shots with that camera -- which I had processed at a local camera shop. After processing my last roll of film, and hearing of my loss, the salesman GLOWED over my last S2 pictures -- and suggested that I "move up to a camera that could really meet my potential". A Leica, of course.
Fortunately for me, I had been eye-balling a Konica T2 -- but took some Leica literature anyway.
Well I never got that T2, and the closest I've ever got to a Leica was a Minolta XE-7 (AKA, Leica R3).
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