Chemicals for developing 120 film

Hi Kai,

Not knocking the fine people here at all, but you could also ask this question over on www.filmwasters.com/forum/ where I'm sure you'll get lots of advice.

As for developers. Depends on the film you are using. You might have a look at www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php where you can put in the film you are using and see what other people have used to develop it along with dev times etc. Generally, black and white developers are one shot, that is they get used once then disposed of. How you dispose of them depends on your local laws so check those.
Stop bath - I use a water rinse but if you are using a film/developer combination that has a short development time, maybe less than 5 minutes, you might want to use a proper stop bath to arrest development more quickly.
Fixer - I use one that' no longer available so no point mentioning that. Ilford Rapid Fixer would be a good one to try.
I would recommend a proper wetting agent / rinse aid as you know it won't affect the film. I used to use a well known washing up liquid without problems but I also know someone who used some other brand and all the emulsion came off their film... Whatever you use, I recommend mixing it and putting it in a spray bottle then spraying the film with it, both sides, once the film has been hung up. The reason for this is because it's not a good idea to use a rinse aid in the dev tank because if it's not thoroughly removed it can cause problems later so best to not put it in the tank in the first place. Whether you squegee the film after applying the rinse aid is up to you. I do, but many people don't. Try it and find out what works for you.

I don't know what's in the Lab-Box but sounds expensive (if that's US dollars you are quoting). I'm sure you could get the essentials you need for less.

Removing the backing paper is easy. It's attached to the film by a single piece of tape which you'll come to as you load the film onto the spiral. I find it's easier to peel it off the paper than the film and it doesn't matter of it remains on the film during processing.

One word of advice, before you try and load a film in the dark, do one in daylight. Wind the film through the camera so it's the right way around first but, of course, no point actually taking anything as the film will get ruined later. It'll cost you the price of the film but it could save you in the long term.

P.S. I recommend the AP reels if you've never loaded a film before as they have a large tongue which helps you to guide the film in. I don't like their tanks much but the reels can be bought separately and fit Paterson tanks and others. Here's one www.amazon.com/Spiral-Paterson-Kaiser-Developing-Multi-Format/dp/B07FKGLSC8

P.P.S Ah, 'Lab-Box', just Googled it. Could be an option but looks like $200 with the 120 option which you will need. And you'll still need other things too like measuring jars. I assumed you were talking about a film dev kit like this one www.patersonphotographic.com/product/paterson-film-processing-kit/. That would be a better option I think if you can get one locally.

P.P.P.S (maybe I should start this again). Have a look at this www.ilfordphoto.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/Reducing-Wash-Water.pdf especially the bit for spiral tank processing. We all need to save water and it's quicker.

As far as I can see, the only advantage of the Lab-Box is you can load it in daylight. The rest of the process is exactly the same as using a conventional tank. Not sure that's worth $200.