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on Aug 7, 2018 12:33:32 GMT
Posted: Aug 7, 2018 12:33:32 GMT
Hello to everyone, I'm new in the forum. My name is Enrico, I'm 26 years old and I'm from Italy I was looking for a film camera to learn shooting and, rummaging at home, I've found this Yashica FX-3 Super 2000 with a ML 50mm 1.9 lens mounted. I really like the look, the feel and it also have a sentimental value, so I'd like to make it my first SLR film camera. But there's one problem: when I shoot (in any aperture value) the aperture ring gets stuck. And it gets stuck (closed) only when I adjust the focus (moving the focus ring) prior to shooting. If I shoot without touching the focus ring, it works just fine. To unblock it I need to move the focus ring around until it clicks back to open. I tried removing the lens and just shooting away with the body and it works perfectly every time. Does anyone ever experienced this kind of problem with this camera or a different one? Thank you for your time Enrico
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on Aug 7, 2018 18:42:53 GMT
Posted: Aug 7, 2018 18:42:53 GMT
One more information. The thing where it gets stuck when I move the focus ring is true but only above 1.4/1.5m (4.5/5ft) distance. Below these values, works just fine.
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on Aug 9, 2018 2:39:25 GMT
Last Edit: Aug 9, 2018 2:40:33 GMT by ridgeblue99
Welcome to the Forum, Enrico, and sorry to hear about your lens problem. Just a guess, but it sounds like the lens had been damaged from a striking blow to the side, deforming the focus ring, thus jamming the aperture ring. I don't recall anything inside the lens like a set screw that would back out and block the aperture ring, but then that was a couple of years ago when I last opened up a 1.9 (the one seen in my avatar which I converted into a clock). Either way, it is going to require a tear down to investigate fully what the issue is. Might be cheaper and easier to just buy another lens.
Good luck.
PF
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on Aug 9, 2018 20:33:25 GMT
Posted: Aug 9, 2018 20:33:25 GMT
I've had a similar issue with several bodies - both Yashica and Contax. In my case it was a problem with mirror slippage. It's a known issue on many Contax cameras, but I've had it affect an FX-3 Super 2000 and an FX-D as well.
I may eventually get around to reworking the adhesive tape that causes the problems, but the quick and extremely easy solution is to store the cameras on their backs. I left a Contax 139 that had mirror slip in that position and went back to it a few days later to find it no longer got 'stuck' when firing at/near infinity focus or when using any aperture setting that positioned the aperture lever in the wrong spot to catch the mirror.
You might want to try leaving your camera in a similar lens-up position for a couple of days and see if that allows gravity to solve the problem for you. So far, it's worked on both Yashica FX's, the 139, a 159MM, and an RX. It's not the greatest solution overall, but it doesn't require tools or any extra effort if it works.
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on Aug 9, 2018 22:09:56 GMT
Posted: Aug 9, 2018 22:09:56 GMT
+1 for mirror slippage. I had two FX-3 Super 2000s and both had that problem.
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on Aug 10, 2018 2:44:40 GMT
Posted: Aug 10, 2018 2:44:40 GMT
Okay, here's a thought. Does this also happen to the lens when it is not on the body? My experience with mirror slippage is that the mirror will hang up on the back of the lens if it has slipped, and that is not what Enrico is complaining about, just a loss of aperture control ring rotation at a certain range in the focus distance. The auto aperture actuating arm will always be in the same position, no matter what focus distance is set, so a slipped mirror would affect it at all distances. I think he needs to test the lens off the camera.
PF
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on Aug 10, 2018 8:50:54 GMT
Posted: Aug 10, 2018 8:50:54 GMT
First of all thank you for replying and taking part in this conversation It's been very helpful reading your solutions. I did removed the lens mount ring to see if there was something going on but nothing was broken or loose. Now the aperture ring is loose cause I don't know what I touched but I must have done something wrong while putting it back together. I will definitely try to leave the body on its back for the weekend. I'm also writing around my town to see if there's anyone that does repairs or that has a lens that mounts on the FX just to try another lens and see if it's actually the lens or a body fault. On Monday I'll update you after the "back operation" Thank you again for helping out
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on Aug 10, 2018 14:59:49 GMT
Last Edit: Aug 10, 2018 15:13:10 GMT by lumiworx
Could it be that there's more than one issue going on simultaneously? I read the original post again and I misread it somewhat about the 'to unblock it...' part. It registered at the time to mean that the shutter was unblocked from firing - not that the aperture ring needed unblocking. However - the comment about moving the focus ring to get things back to normal suggested that it was a mirror slip issue which is 'fixed' by that same action. Twisting the focus to let the mirror fall will also produce a 'tink' noise when the mirror hits on its return to the normal/down position. ridgeblue99 ... I dug out my 2000 body, and a 1.9 lens to check pins/levers/etc., and there's the max-aperture pin (non-moving metal ramp-shaped bump out) that sits at the top of the lens, which is the piece that has the potential to hang up the mirror, and not the aperture lever. The aperture lever is positioned at the bottom of the mirror block where it meets up with the preview's activation lever, so that's completely out of the mirrors path. I don't have a 1.9c version lens to see if it also has the ramp/pin sticking out. On other lenses there's not a molded-in ramp on the lens's rear cover, but an adjustable L-shaped bracket that can also interfere with mirrors. The other possible catch point is the 'current aperture' lever - for lack of a better term. It slides upwards in the slot when the aperture is opened, so it's at the top-most position at max-aperture. @gryngowho ... Is there another lens you can swap out and test with? That would isolate the problem and see if it's an issue with the lens, or the body, or both lens and body. It's still possible that there's mirror slip, but it may be happening at the same time as some mechanical problems within the lens itself. You mentioned that you can remove the lens and have no issue with just firing the shutter and otherwise operating the body okay, but it would help to know if having a different lens attached would still cause the same results - or - different results. (for reference on pin/lever locations)
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on Aug 11, 2018 11:41:29 GMT
Posted: Aug 11, 2018 11:41:29 GMT
Could it be that there's more than one issue going on simultaneously? I read the original post again and I misread it somewhat about the 'to unblock it...' part. It registered at the time to mean that the shutter was unblocked from firing - not that the aperture ring needed unblocking. However - the comment about moving the focus ring to get things back to normal suggested that it was a mirror slip issue which is 'fixed' by that same action. Twisting the focus to let the mirror fall will also produce a 'tink' noise when the mirror hits on its return to the normal/down position. ridgeblue99 ... I dug out my 2000 body, and a 1.9 lens to check pins/levers/etc., and there's the max-aperture pin (non-moving metal ramp-shaped bump out) that sits at the top of the lens, which is the piece that has the potential to hang up the mirror, and not the aperture lever. The aperture lever is positioned at the bottom of the mirror block where it meets up with the preview's activation lever, so that's completely out of the mirrors path. I don't have a 1.9c version lens to see if it also has the ramp/pin sticking out. On other lenses there's not a molded-in ramp on the lens's rear cover, but an adjustable L-shaped bracket that can also interfere with mirrors. The other possible catch point is the 'current aperture' lever - for lack of a better term. It slides upwards in the slot when the aperture is opened, so it's at the top-most position at max-aperture. @gryngowho ... Is there another lens you can swap out and test with? That would isolate the problem and see if it's an issue with the lens, or the body, or both lens and body. It's still possible that there's mirror slip, but it may be happening at the same time as some mechanical problems within the lens itself. You mentioned that you can remove the lens and have no issue with just firing the shutter and otherwise operating the body okay, but it would help to know if having a different lens attached would still cause the same results - or - different results. (for reference on pin/lever locations) As far as I know it could also be like you said, a conjunction of problems. On Monday I will be calling all the camera shops in town to ask if they somehow have Yashica/Zeiss lens for this camera, so I can go and try it out. It's definitely something I will be doing cause at least I'd be able to isolate what can be the problem. I will be updating you on Monday if I'm lucky enough to find one. In the meantime I thank you for the clear explanation on what could be the issue. I have no experience at all but I feel like I'm grasping more and more about the camera as you guys helped me explore this problem Enrico
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on Aug 12, 2018 2:46:24 GMT
Posted: Aug 12, 2018 2:46:24 GMT
Could it be that there's more than one issue going on simultaneously? I read the original post again and I misread it somewhat about the 'to unblock it...' part. It registered at the time to mean that the shutter was unblocked from firing - not that the aperture ring needed unblocking. However - the comment about moving the focus ring to get things back to normal suggested that it was a mirror slip issue which is 'fixed' by that same action. Twisting the focus to let the mirror fall will also produce a 'tink' noise when the mirror hits on its return to the normal/down position. ridgeblue99 ... I dug out my 2000 body, and a 1.9 lens to check pins/levers/etc., and there's the max-aperture pin (non-moving metal ramp-shaped bump out) that sits at the top of the lens, which is the piece that has the potential to hang up the mirror, and not the aperture lever. The aperture lever is positioned at the bottom of the mirror block where it meets up with the preview's activation lever, so that's completely out of the mirrors path. I don't have a 1.9c version lens to see if it also has the ramp/pin sticking out. On other lenses there's not a molded-in ramp on the lens's rear cover, but an adjustable L-shaped bracket that can also interfere with mirrors. The other possible catch point is the 'current aperture' lever - for lack of a better term. It slides upwards in the slot when the aperture is opened, so it's at the top-most position at max-aperture. @gryngowho ... Is there another lens you can swap out and test with? That would isolate the problem and see if it's an issue with the lens, or the body, or both lens and body. It's still possible that there's mirror slip, but it may be happening at the same time as some mechanical problems within the lens itself. You mentioned that you can remove the lens and have no issue with just firing the shutter and otherwise operating the body okay, but it would help to know if having a different lens attached would still cause the same results - or - different results. (for reference on pin/lever locations) As you can see, my point was that none of the levers are affected by the distance the lens focus is set at, so it makes no sense to say the mirror is hanging up on one of them until the focus is changed. Enrico does not complain about the image in the viewfinder being affected, so I feel one can eliminate the mirror as the problem. I still feel it's a matter of barrel distortion due to the lens having been dropped. Another thing is one of the levers could be bent internally, and rubs against the lens element block.
PF
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on Aug 14, 2018 17:12:04 GMT
Posted: Aug 14, 2018 17:12:04 GMT
Hello again to anyone participating in this quest for the problem of a forgotten Yashica I tried to leave the body on its back for a couple of days and pick it up again and shoot, but that didn't work, the problem persisted; This evening I brought the whole thing to a shop of a guy that had a Yashica lens: it mounted as expected and it worked properly on any setting of focus and aperture. So the update is that the problem is in the lens and that I just gotta buy a new one on eBay. It should be no more than 30€ but it's been interesting I think to explore this issue with much more experienced people like you guys. I'd like to thank you kindly for helping me out along the way, I hope in some way it's been helpful to you guys too Enrico
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on Aug 15, 2018 2:24:01 GMT
Posted: Aug 15, 2018 2:24:01 GMT
What, you didn't like the lens the shop owner had?
Whatever, you can read some of the posts here in the lens sub-forum to see what ones folks are more interested in, Enrico, and even some in depth reviews to help you make a decision. I believe the ML 50mm 1:1.9 was the standard lens, and the 1:1.7 was optional. There is also a 1:1.4 available, but it may be more than thirty Euros.
PF
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on Aug 15, 2018 11:04:04 GMT
Posted: Aug 15, 2018 11:04:04 GMT
What, you didn't like the lens the shop owner had?
Whatever, you can read some of the posts here in the lens sub-forum to see what ones folks are more interested in, Enrico, and even some in depth reviews to help you make a decision. I believe the ML 50mm 1:1.9 was the standard lens, and the 1:1.7 was optional. There is also a 1:1.4 available, but it may be more than thirty Euros.
PF
It was a zoom lens, it was too big for what I want the camera to weigh and look like I'm just looking for another standard 50mm one. I've seen some 1.7-2, those would be the best choices. Also I'm learning so I'd go with a prime rather than a zoom. To learn footwork, like boxing Thank you for the heads up anyways E.
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on Aug 17, 2018 2:38:49 GMT
Posted: Aug 17, 2018 2:38:49 GMT
Yeah, I've only got a couple of zooms I really like, Enrico. 35-105 is my favorite range, but a 28-105 is nice if it doesn't vignette. Been shooting more with primes lately, mainly because of extensive rangefinder use.
PF
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on Aug 17, 2018 10:59:26 GMT
Posted: Aug 17, 2018 10:59:26 GMT
Yeah, I've only got a couple of zooms I really like, Enrico. 35-105 is my favorite range, but a 28-105 is nice if it doesn't vignette. Been shooting more with primes lately, mainly because of extensive rangefinder use. PF Do you do a certain kind of photography? Like sports or street?
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