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on Jun 29, 2018 20:30:26 GMT
Posted: Jun 29, 2018 20:30:26 GMT
Good Evening,
i do own two copies of the ML 35/2.8, the problem is - my 2nd copy is almost like new, but it's aperture blades are stuck, i can turn & the Focus and Aperture Rings onto the Lens, but the Aperture doesn't open or close, it's just being all time fully open - how can i fix this, and perhaps then re-calibrate infinity focus? I do need some way small Philips Screwdriver, perhaps #PH00 or something like that...does anyone here have had serviced this 35/2.8 ML before?
thanks
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on Jul 8, 2018 13:29:25 GMT
Last Edit: Jul 8, 2018 13:29:48 GMT by lenslover
Superb - 15 Views, and nobody here onto this forum does have a clue...
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on Jul 9, 2018 23:39:43 GMT
Last Edit: Jul 9, 2018 23:42:43 GMT by lumiworx
I have the 35mm 2.8, but never had a reason to pop one open. I've had several lenses - including Yashica/Zeiss - that have had aperture issues of being unable to stop them down, or they operate way too slowly to be effective on film cameras - and pretty much a PITA on digital. Of the 2 copies I own, they both work as expected. There may not be only one recurring issue that will always apply to every instance of either non-opening or slow blades. It takes some investigation and ruling some things as either 'in' or 'out' as the reason for malfunctions. It might be true on some occasions that one lens model might be more prone to one recurring issue that it's easy to point to it as the cause, but in my experience, the ML 35mm wide isn't one of those lenses. A couple of the usual culprits that you can look out for might be... 1. A missing or broken spring that attaches the blade's assembly to the actuator lever - or - it was incorrectly mounted backwards in a previous failed repair. 2. Obvious signs of too much oil on the blades (assuming some are visible), or a too-slow releasing spring that's bound up from an overage of oil or grease. In general, it's easiest (for me, anyway) to operate all the controls to see what is or isn't working, check for odd noises or rattling parts, and to use a small flashlight to peer into the crevices on the rear mount for mechanical issues or signs of sticky lubricants. I try to narrow things way down before grabbing tools and popping things open. I also have a a small 8x magnifying loupe to get a better look in detail when my old eyes have issues with tiny things. Oddly enough, there have been times that just working the mechanism a few dozen times is enough to dislodge the blades to some degree, or even get it all sorted, with no tools needed. Oil/grease issues can often be resolved with patience and tools, but finding spare parts can be difficult. Not every lens spring will work in every brand's lenses. If you do find you're in need of small screwdrivers, the dollar store's jewelers mini-set is unlikely to be very helpful with any lenses or cameras. You could potentially strip heads and make things worse. You can get a small startup set of JIS spec Vessel brand screwdrivers for under $15 via amazon ( amzn.to/2u7DeMo ). I have them and use them for anything made in Japan. There's 2 cross point (ala, 'phillips'), and 3 straights in metric sizes. Depending on the model/make of lens, you may have to figure out what assembly method was used before you can effect a repair. Some front bezel rings are unscrewed, some front bezel assemblies unscrew as a group, while some use a 3-point (or more) set screw approach that are either visible on the outer barrel, or under the rubber grip. You may need a lens spanner in addition to your other tools to get inside - or - rubber stoppers to remove the front rings. As you've probably guessed by now, there's just no single answer to the question you asked, and the ways to fix the issues aren't always simple. |
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on Jul 12, 2018 22:13:46 GMT
Posted: Jul 12, 2018 22:13:46 GMT
Thanks for your answer, the lens is into optically condition like mint, no scratches, dings or bents, but it just won't work when i rotating the aperture ring, it just nothing happens...means, the aperture blades are being stuck, and at fully aperture, means wide open, so you don't see them anyway.
I do have no experience with lens repairs, i am just a amateur photographer for some decades, love to shoot, but can't service them by myself.
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on Jul 13, 2018 14:49:14 GMT
Posted: Jul 13, 2018 14:49:14 GMT
lenslover...
Other than twisting the aperture ring, have you tried to move the actuator lever at the rear of the lens? That is THE control lever that does the real work, and it also must be properly operable for the iris blades to open or close.
The following applies to Yashica C/Y mount lenses only, but it will help to diagnose what's wrong.
Looking at the lens mount plate at the rear of the lens, there will be a pair of slits, and each one has a lever sticking out. The larger slit is for the lever that tells the camera what the currently selected aperture is. This lever should not move if you try to push it along the slit with your finger. It is adjusted by moving the aperture ring itself and usually it's not movable directly, and shouldn't ever be forced to move without using the ring to do it.
The smaller slit is the actuator that the (film) camera body would use to adjust the aperture when the shutter is triggered - in order to stop the lens down to the appropriate aperture. This lever 'should' close the aperture down to whatever f-stop is physically set by the aperture ring. Set your ring to be any f-stop value other than wide open - then slide that lever along the slit to observe what happens with the lever, and, to the iris.
If the lever is connected to its spring, it should move freely in the direction you push it - then instantly return to it's original position when you release it. If there's no spring attached at all (or it's broken, or missing) it will not return to its starting position... meaning you have a spring (parts) issue, and that's the root cause of why your blades don't move. If it does move and instantly returns - BUT - it started from and returns to the right side of the slit... the spring is likely to be in a reversed/backwards orientation and needs to be reset. If there's resistance while sliding it while either opening or closing the iris - or it won't move at all - there's likely to be an overage of oil/grease that's preventing it from moving the blades and requires disassembling and cleaning.
If the larger slit's lever doesn't respond to adjustments made by the aperture ring, there are mechanical connection issues, and/or broken or bound-up or missing parts.
If everything seems to be in the correct position, has zero resistance issues, and is responding and returning via spring and ring - then there's a slim chance that some previous owner had issues with the aperture, and removed or disabled all the blades. The other possibility is that there is so much oil/grease covering the blades, that they are unable to move from their current position. The only way to know for sure at this point - no matter what the cause might be - is to effect a repair and observe the internal pieces during actuation.
The options you have are dependent on what your symptoms turn out to be. Sending a lens off for repairs to someone who knows what they're doing and has ALL the tools necessary to do a proper job can be quite expensive. There aren't many people I'm aware off that would touch a lens repair job for less than $100 US, and that could be more if parts were needed. It's safe to say you can buy another Yashica 35mm 2.8 in good/operable condition for near that price, than to pay out for the total repair cost (adding on the shipping, insurance, parts, time, etc.). There are probably 3 people I could recommend if you want to pay for a repair to be properly done, but I don't know how available they might be, or how long it might take. Keep in mind that there will likely be a minimum 'bench fee' to just assess what repairs are needed and provide cost estimates... so there's no freebies to find out what the problems are.
If you can't justify that kind of cost... keep the 2nd lens as parts, or use it as-is. If you're willing to fail, buys some good basic tools and try to do the fix yourself - IF - you're also willing to sacrifice the lens as your first attempt at a repair. I fix my own lenses when I can't justify the repair cost - AND - when it's a simple enough fix that I'm comfortable doing, and doing it properly. I won't presume that I'd be asked, but no... I don't fix/diagnose lenses other than my own, as I just don't have the expertise or tools needed to do a guarantee-able job. If you do want to try it on your own, I'd really suggest investing in the appropriate and proper tools, so you don't end up destroying what you want to fix in the process.
Good luck, either way you decide.
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on Jul 15, 2018 14:03:27 GMT
Last Edit: Jul 15, 2018 14:06:58 GMT by lenslover
Thanks, for the information here. Well, the aperture does nothing, means the blades won't open or close, and i am not willing to spent 100 bucks for repair, so i keep the lens as it is, and would perhaps someday get another copy. Too bad, the prices raised the past years for this lens, and one can almost buy "the real" deal, the Distagon 35/2.8 C/Y then. I don't have the lens specific tools for repair, nor do i have the free time to-do so, and the patience, anyway, nowadays. I was good into my teenage days with modelling, and way small parts, but i don't have this patience these days, and also never rebuilt a lens by myself, i can solder perfectly, also SMD, but i can't do things like lens repairs, because i don't have the experience, or the skills herefore. I'd like to take pictures, for my own pleasure & slowdown, but not opening & trying to fix especially lenses, where i don't have a clue, chances that it does get defective is then 90%, and that's too much. I leave it as it is, perhaps sell this lens someday. Poor lens, why it does its aperture blades became faulty.
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on Jul 15, 2018 20:22:21 GMT
Posted: Jul 15, 2018 20:22:21 GMT
As an aside on the price issue; a nice low cost alternative to either the Yashica ML or the Zeiss is an Olympus OM Zuiko 35/2.8. My copy of the Oly is better than the Yashica or Zeiss 35/2.8s I have owned.
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on Jul 15, 2018 23:14:39 GMT
Posted: Jul 15, 2018 23:14:39 GMT
lenslover...
I completely understand, and I wish that repair folk were plentiful and cheap(er) too. As a life-long tinkerer, it's part of my nature and what I've always done when the alternatives aren't favorable.
I think my last 35 was $70-ish US, but I was patient and it was a Sunday ebay auction during football season - so - I didn't end up being as high as it could have been.
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