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on May 13, 2017 21:56:18 GMT
Last Edit: May 13, 2017 22:00:20 GMT by lenslover
Hi Guys, i've recently bought off evil ebay a Yashica FX-3 Super, what is curious, i do know only the FX-3, and the FX-3 Super 2000, but mine looks like the FX-3 Super 2000, but only says Super, so no 1/2000s Shutterspeed. Anyway, it is in great condition, only the leatherette is fading, besides this, like mint. I think i'd get a new Set from Akiba Camera next Month. Does anyone know about the FX-3 Super (not 2000) here?! The attached (i have had a copy before - now two) 50/F2 ML is also like mint...and i've also bought cheap a 2nd 28/2.8 ML, couldn't resist for the asking price... What is annoying, these Eyecups from Contax/Yashica are really expensive...much more than some ML's....for real. Cheers Marc
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on May 14, 2017 13:20:34 GMT
Posted: May 14, 2017 13:20:34 GMT
The Super was first shown in 1984, 2 years before the Super 2000 ...... both great little mechanical shutter cameras. The chrome version was called the FX-7 Super, and were joint first for Yashica to add a right-hand "grip".
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on May 14, 2017 16:58:09 GMT
Last Edit: May 14, 2017 16:59:08 GMT by lenslover
Thanks, but here is the Thing: My FX-3 Super does have the Handgrip, just like the Super 2000...just not the 1/2000s Shutterspeed, max. 1/1000s. I do think i would buy a new leatherette Set, even the Viewfinder is very clear, and it's too bad, to let it collect dust or rust...so i'd shooting it. So the FX-3 Super is kinda rare these days? I have seen only the ordinary FX-3, or the FX-3 Super 2000, never the FX-3 Super before.
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Status: Long, long time Contax and Yashica user; glad to be here and hope to contribute.
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on May 14, 2017 21:26:43 GMT
Posted: May 14, 2017 21:26:43 GMT
The FX-3 Super improved on the FX-3 by providing a flash ready indicator in the viewfinder, moving the meter switch from the rear button on the FX-3 to the shutter release, and of course adding that well-known grip.
The Super 2000 not only added a top speed of 1:2000 but also provided an increased ISO sensitivity to a maximum of 3200 (from 1600), although the lower end was reduced from 12 to 25. When it comes to the Super 2000, you need to aim for the earliest serial numbers as some of the last batches made in China used inferior components to save costs; the FX-3 Super remains a very reliable camera and a bit of a star because of it. Unless you need that 1:2000 top speed, it's the one that tends to give you the greatest confidence.
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on May 14, 2017 22:24:59 GMT
Posted: May 14, 2017 22:24:59 GMT
I guess a 751xxxx serial number on mine would rather be a high one for a Super 2000, am I right? (The bottom plate says "JAPAN" though, but that might neither be accurate, nor do I know if it's the original plate.)
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on Aug 10, 2017 16:11:13 GMT
Last Edit: Aug 10, 2017 16:12:06 GMT by alex
As noted, the FX3-Super basically just moved the metering control from a button on the rear, to the more usual half-press on the shutter release. I have both the FX3 and the FX3-Super, both re-covered after the original leatherette disintegrated.
There's one thing I've noted, however, and whilst it may be peculiar to my copies (though I hope not), it's that the mechanical shutters are very accurate. I tested mine with an electronic shutter tester, and for the FX3-Super, this is the speed progression against nominal (all numbers reciprocals) :-
1.02, 2.2, 4.3, 7.5, 15.5, 30.09, 62.3, 116, 257, 501, 980
These are all within about a tenth of a stop. Most meters read to a third of a stop. The top speed is particularly notable, because they tend to run significantly slower, but this is as near as dammit spot on. The original FX3 shows similar accuracy.
By contrast, this was the shutter progression for my quartz-controlled Contax RTS, speeded up to 1/2000 :-
0.9, 1.94, 3.96, 7.4, 15.7, 29.3, 57.4, 103, 181, 367, 512, 580
As is obvious, it was only accurate up to 1/60, and then slowed down to reach 1.8 stops out at the top '2000' speed.
A remarkable testament to the reliability of the mechanical shutters of these old manual no-frills SLRs from Yashica.
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on Aug 16, 2017 21:00:36 GMT
Posted: Aug 16, 2017 21:00:36 GMT
What is annoying, these Eyecups from Contax/Yashica are really expensive...much more than some ML's....for real. Cheers Marc Eyecups from a Canon 300D ( or 450D or 40D ) do fit. Aliexpress is your friend. Sold for peanuts.
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on Aug 18, 2017 6:05:17 GMT
Posted: Aug 18, 2017 6:05:17 GMT
What is annoying, these Eyecups from Contax/Yashica are really expensive...much more than some ML's....for real. Cheers Marc Eyecups from a Canon 300D ( or 450D or 40D ) do fit. Aliexpress is your friend. Sold for peanuts. Great tip... thanks!!!!
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on Sept 12, 2017 12:43:34 GMT
Posted: Sept 12, 2017 12:43:34 GMT
Eyecups from a Canon 300D ( or 450D or 40D ) do fit. Aliexpress is your friend. Sold for peanuts. Great tip... thanks!!!! You can even open the back with the cup attached :-)
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on Sept 30, 2017 16:13:04 GMT
Posted: Sept 30, 2017 16:13:04 GMT
Eyecups from a Canon 300D ( or 450D or 40D ) do fit. Aliexpress is your friend. Sold for peanuts. Great tip... thanks!!!! Well, i have had bought a Contax Eyecup clone for my FX-3 here (the round rubber one), as i do think the Canon design doesn't fit for Yashica properly... and then you must use the FF Version, afaik Canon Eb, not the smaller one from APS-C, means these xxxD Canons. :-)
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on Dec 31, 2017 21:07:05 GMT
Last Edit: Dec 31, 2017 21:07:25 GMT by tts
Great tip... thanks!!!! Well, i have had bought a Contax Eyecup clone for my FX-3 here (the round rubber one), as i do think the Canon design doesn't fit for Yashica properly... and then you must use the FF Version, afaik Canon Eb, not the smaller one from APS-C, means these xxxD Canons. :-) Nope, You can use the smaller one, from the xxxD...
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on Jul 22, 2018 1:00:43 GMT
Posted: Jul 22, 2018 1:00:43 GMT
Hello all, New member here, so not at all sure how to start a new post (as opposed to a "reply"), but hopefully a few right eyes might see this and give me some guidance! I recently purchased a beautifully mint Yashica FX-3 Super 2000. My intent was simply to have another simple, fully mechanical body to use alongside my Contax SLRs and be compatible with my Contax/Zeiss lenses. I really fell in love with the FX-3s appearance and compact form factor and was of course happy I'd found one that looked essentially new. So far, so good... I loaded batteries to test its metering. All looked good in terms of the red over and under LEDs and the green correct exposure LED. I set the camera aside for a couple of hours. When I came back to load some film, I was surprised to see the lights barely flickered when I partially depressed the shutter release PLUS a red battery symbol below the exposure LEDS was now glowing (it hadn't before). At first, I was assuming an electrical fault had rapidly drained the batteries, but when I checked them under load they were fine. Additionally, they worked in a Nikon. So now I'm puzzled as to what could have gone wrong with the camera. If anyone - especially with first hand experience - might be able to address this, I'd sure appreciate it as I need to know how to proceed with the seller. Many thanks!
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on Jul 22, 2018 5:06:49 GMT
Last Edit: Jul 22, 2018 5:21:12 GMT by lumiworx
ilovefilm...
I've not had this happen with any FX-3 bodies, but the same thing occurred with an RTS I bought a few months ago.
It wouldn't fire the shutter, and the mirror was up like it was jammed/locked. I couldn't get the mirror to drop or keep any battery power in it long enough to track down what the shutter issue might be. After burning through 2 cells, I gave up on the notion of getting it working. You didn't mention if you successfully fired the shutter, so I'm not sure how closely related this might be to your problem. My body's meter was also functioning when fresh batteries were installed, but likewise died within several minutes. And... if the batteries were pulled they'd recover power, but not to 100% of what they were.
I seem to recall reading something online about the shutter triggering circuit's contacts (magnetic?) that can become stuck together and it requires a tear down to get at them in order to clean and separate them. I figured that might have been the cause of my shutter issue, as if the circuit was held closed and constantly connected. My assumption was that the entire shutter cycle couldn't complete, and it just drained battery power. I have no evidence to support my guess, and I never tried any further fixes. It might also explain the mirror not wanting to return if there were some mechanical link that was also not getting cycled.
If your shutter is firing okay, but obviously not lasting long enough for even a days worth of shooting, it's likely going to sit in the parts pile much like my RTS does now. For me, I bought it for the still-good body parts that I needed elsewhere, so for the price I paid I'm not complaining. That might not work for you. There are lots of bodies available and at reasonable prices, so if it's easier to avoid the time and/or expense of working out the bugs - return the bad one, and find a good one. FX-D's and FX-103 Programs are small, light and aren't all as plastic-y as the FX-3, but they'll likely need a new set of coverings.
BTW.. the rectangular Canon eyepiece mentioned that works on every Yashica or Contax C/Y mount body that can use them, is the "Eyecup EF". Its the same eyepiece used on a Rebel X/XS/XSi film camera. The "EG" version or the "EP-EX15" or any of the other 'extended' versions won't work either. These aren't an exact match to the FX-4 or FX-5 models on RX/AX/ST/etc., but match the earlier FX-3's and other eyepieces. I ordered 5 last year from Hong Kong for $1.99, and they worked great. I just ordered another batch while I read through this thread. :)
Here's an ebay seller in china - 5pcs, $1.99, free shipping
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on Jul 22, 2018 13:43:27 GMT
Posted: Jul 22, 2018 13:43:27 GMT
I seem to recall reading something online about the shutter triggering circuit's contacts (magnetic?) that can become stuck together and it requires a tear down to get at them in order to clean and separate them. I figured that might have been the cause of my shutter issue, as if the circuit was held closed and constantly connected. My assumption was that the entire shutter cycle couldn't complete, and it just drained battery power. I have no evidence to support my guess, and I never tried any further fixes. It might also explain the mirror not wanting to return if there were some mechanical link that was also not getting cycled. That seems to ring a bell with me. I dimly remember having read similar explanations of this particular issue. I guess ridgeblue should be able to enlighten us on that one...
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on Jul 23, 2018 1:57:12 GMT
Posted: Jul 23, 2018 1:57:12 GMT
Lumiworx... Thanks for replying and for the replacement eyecup options! I think you may have misread my question - It had nothing to do with a shutter lock-up causing battery drain. The shutter of the FX-3 is mechanical and continues to work fine. Additionally, the battery checks fine, so it wasn't even a case of the camera prematurely draining battery. If anyone might be able to comment on this - ideally from first hand experience with the FX-3 - I'd still appreciate it so that I know how to proceed with seller. Thanks in advance!
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