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on Aug 10, 2015 7:03:47 GMT
Posted: Aug 10, 2015 7:03:47 GMT
I recently got a Yashica Electro 35 GT that came with a shutter problem I think. The shutter fires at >1/500 speed (tested this against another camera) in all 3 modes. I've cleaned the shutter blades with alcohol but it was only a few times so I'm not sure if I should try cleaning it a few more times and giving it more exercise or if this is like a mechanical problem or something. Also does bulb not work without a battery or do I have another problem?
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on Aug 10, 2015 12:20:27 GMT
Posted: Aug 10, 2015 12:20:27 GMT
All the Electro series cameras require a battery, which powers both metering and the shutter. The shutter will default to 1/500 in the absence of a battery, but for anything slower, including 'B', you need the battery. You can't set the shutter speed, only the aperture, and the camera does not display shutter speed information, though it's relatively easy to work out what it would be. If you have a battery that's good and the camera is still not working, then that points to an electrical fault, possibly corroded wiring inside the battery chamber. I have never tackled this myself (though one of my Electros has this problem), but there are plenty of guides on the 'net, and there's a gentleman on this forum, whose name I forget but is based in the US, who is a practical expert on refurishing the Electros, and may be able to offer a better diagnosis than I can.
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on Aug 10, 2015 15:53:52 GMT
Posted: Aug 10, 2015 15:53:52 GMT
That would be forum member Russ Cisco (b1msgt), and his website is camerarefurb.com
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on Aug 10, 2015 17:11:25 GMT
Posted: Aug 10, 2015 17:11:25 GMT
That's the gentleman!
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on Aug 10, 2015 17:32:33 GMT
Last Edit: Aug 10, 2015 17:37:30 GMT by wavyalpha
Ah, didn't know bulb wouldn't work without a battery. And in regards to the 1/500 speed, it seems to be shooting faster than that. When I look at the shutter directly it looks like it doesn't even open but when I open the back and look through the lens I can see the shutter opens. I'm pretty sure it's faster than 1/500 because I timed it against a canonet ql17 (recorded both going off in slo mo) so I'm not sure if I need to clean the shutter a bit more or if the problem is with something inside. And I've replaced the POD so I don't think it's a problem with that
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on Aug 10, 2015 20:45:22 GMT
Posted: Aug 10, 2015 20:45:22 GMT
Welcome to the forum, Wavyalpha. You picked a good camera to start your Yashica obsession with. Some of the issues you mention with your camera are pretty common with the Electro-35 series of rangefinders. But you really need to test it with a battery. Just looking at any shutter from the front when it's firing at 1/300 of a second or above the human eye cannot discern the motion. You at least determined that it is opening by looking at it from the rear, so you don't particularly have a shutter issue. Most mechanically timed shutters will not operate at the rated fast speeds even on a good day, as there are too many things that have to be just perfect for that to happen. Springs need to be at the proper tension, blades need to be clean, and levers should be free of striking face barbs. The electronically controlled shutter in the Electro-35 is much more accurate, so timing it against a mechanical shutter is an unfair contest. The POD replacement presents another issue, one that is overlooked by many. The internal levers will likely need to be adjusted so that the firing sequence is correct. You can find the instructions at this site www.monopix.co.uk/index.shtmlBut by all means, get a battery for your camera, and check the metering circuits. I doesn't do a bit of good to fix mechanical issues when you don't even know if the camera was in working condition to start with. And read up on the operation instructions, available at www.butkus.org/chinon/Have fun with your "new" camera, and let us know the results of your endeavors. PF
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on Aug 11, 2015 11:26:14 GMT
Last Edit: Aug 11, 2015 11:27:15 GMT by alex
I'm pretty sure it's faster than 1/500 because I timed it against a canonet ql17 (recorded both going off in slo mo) That comparison won't really work. I have a shutter speed tester, and every mechanically-shuttered camera I have tested with a top speed of 500 has run slow at the top speed, usually around 300 or 350. The Ricoh 500G did this (both my models), the Oly 35RC (both my models), most of the Ministers (only my Minister III was better than half a stop out at 500), the Lynx 14e did it too. The QL17 is a mechanically shuttered camera, and it's quite possible its top speed is running a whole stop slow. The most accurate shutter speeds on any of my mechanical cameras are in the Yashica FX-3 range, which in mine show about 980 for 1000. Although my Electros are showing close to 500, I've noticed that the blades show an irregular pattern rather than fully opening at f/1.7, so I wouldn't use its supposed 'default' speed when batteryless.
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on Aug 11, 2015 14:58:39 GMT
Posted: Aug 11, 2015 14:58:39 GMT
Well turns out my fear of a faulty shutter is unfounded haha. Just tested the camera with a Mercury battery the previous owner gave me just as a reference to what kind of voltage the camera would take. I popped it in out of curiosity and it actually worked for about a minute before it looks like it completely died. But in that time I tested the bulb and auto settings and both seem to work perfect. The slow and over lights came on (although very dim) when I adjusted the aperture and the shutter stayed open for as long as I held the button when in bulb. I also adjusted the rods and now it has a very satisfying click whenever I press the shutter release button . All that's left to do is get a battery and run a roll of film through it. Btw, what battery do you guys recommend? I'm gonna go down to B&H later and I'm thinking of getting an a32px or a 4lr44 with some foil and a spring
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on Aug 11, 2015 15:52:58 GMT
Posted: Aug 11, 2015 15:52:58 GMT
The Electros aren't voltage sensitive, so a 4LR44 with a small spring or an aluminium foil plug will do the trick. There's a combination of 3v and 2 x 1.5v cells whose depths add up to the right value to fill the battery chamber, but I can't remember offhand what they are, though a 'net search should return the information needed.
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on Aug 12, 2015 4:55:49 GMT
Posted: Aug 12, 2015 4:55:49 GMT
If you get a 4LR44, you can find ready made adapters on eBay, or make your own. In fact, our good friend and member Russ Cisco at camerarefurb.com/ sells them. PF
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on Aug 14, 2015 16:20:44 GMT
Posted: Aug 14, 2015 16:20:44 GMT
PX32 batteries are the original size--if you can find them. PX28s are the same size as 4LR44s; compare the mAH ratings of the two and select the one with the higher rating. If you're in a hurry, a 3/4-inch bolt with a nut on the end makes a good spacer for the 4LR44-size batteries. If you use the mix of one 3V and 2 1.5-V, be sure they are all the same type: that is, all lithium or all alkaline, etc. Mixing types can compromise the batteries and the camera.
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on Aug 15, 2015 6:49:30 GMT
Posted: Aug 15, 2015 6:49:30 GMT
Hey guys, got a 4lr44 wrapped in a piece of cardboard and stuffed with aluminum and all lights are able to be turned on. The shutter speed changes in different lighting situations so it's all good from here. There's one minor thing that bothers me because I don't know if it's a problem or not and that's the slow and over exposed lights. The slow light only turns on when the shutter button is halfway pressed and the overexposed light only turns on about a quarter of the way pressed. They both turn off when pushed slightly passed those boundaries. Is this normal operation?
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on Aug 15, 2015 17:43:56 GMT
Posted: Aug 15, 2015 17:43:56 GMT
That is normal.
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