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on May 9, 2022 19:09:02 GMT
Posted: May 9, 2022 19:09:02 GMT
I just picked up a very nice Lynx 5000E with case. Obviously not used very much. Shutter and apertures are fine -- slow shutter speeds a little IFFY.
I removed the 640 batteries, and the battery chamber has some corrosion. Since I lack 640 batteries, I'm wondering if there is an alternative to the 640 -- or if I can somehow test the meter without a battery.
It even has a nice wide Yashica shoulder strap.
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on May 10, 2022 2:45:30 GMT
Last Edit: May 10, 2022 4:13:45 GMT by ridgeblue99
I just picked up a very nice Lynx 5000E with case. Obviously not used very much. Shutter and apertures are fine -- slow shutter speeds a little IFFY.
I removed the 640 batteries, and the battery chamber has some corrosion. Since I lack 640 batteries, I'm wondering if there is an alternative to the 640 -- or if I can somehow test the meter without a battery.
It even has a nice wide Yashica shoulder strap.
640 batteries are still available, you just have to order them, or hopefully you have one of those battery stores nearby that stocks everything. There are adapters available to use 357 or SR44 cells instead. You can also try using a 3v CR-1/3N lithium cell with a dummy in the other space. You'll also need to wrap the CR-1/3N with some thing to make it bigger in diameter so the ends match up with the battery leads in the chamber. You can make a carrier out of plastic tubing, and a short length of wooden dowel that has a round head bolt in it.
PF
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Status: Failed treatment for L.B.A. and G.A.S,
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on May 10, 2022 3:26:25 GMT
Last Edit: May 10, 2022 3:27:33 GMT by lumiworx
If you have a CR123A handy, it - and a piece of tinfoil - should offer a way to test the meter. I think they are slightly smaller in diameter so they'll fit in the compartment, but they're too long to allow the cap to be put back on for a permanent replacement. Those are 3v batteries, so assuming the circuit can tolerate a little voltage difference, it should make do for testing. Online manual for the 5000E... usermanual.wiki/Yashica/Lynx5000EInstructionBooklet.259051505 |
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on May 10, 2022 3:49:20 GMT
Last Edit: May 10, 2022 4:02:49 GMT by ridgeblue99
If you have a CR123A handy, it - and a piece of tinfoil - should offer a way to test the meter. I think they are slightly smaller in diameter so they'll fit in the compartment, but they're too long to allow the cap to be put back on for a permanent replacement. Those are 3v batteries, so assuming the circuit can tolerate a little voltage difference, it should make do for testing. Online manual for the 5000E... usermanual.wiki/Yashica/Lynx5000EInstructionBooklet.259051505A CR123 won't fit because it is way larger than two 640s, in length and diameter. Even the CR2 which is closer in diameter to the 640 is three times the length.
PF
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on May 10, 2022 14:53:12 GMT
Posted: May 10, 2022 14:53:12 GMT
I just checked and the CR123A is way too big, but the CR2 should fit, but is a little too long. Still, I'll clean the chamber up and see if I can MacGyver something with a CR2 -- which I have.
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on May 10, 2022 16:04:38 GMT
Last Edit: May 11, 2022 2:02:51 GMT by ridgeblue99
I just checked and the CR123A is way too big, but the CR2 should fit, but is a little too long. Still, I'll clean the chamber up and see if I can MacGyver something with a CR2 -- which I have. An L544 lithium is a bit shorter than the CR2, or it's silver oxide twin KS28 or alkaline models 4LR44, A544, and PX28A, so it might fit. Used in monitoring devices such as dog collars, the various models are close to the size of two 640's, are readily available, and slimmer than the 640.
The L544 is 6v, so don't even try this in a Lynx camera. Better to get two SR44's, and an adapter to make them fit the battery well.
PF
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on May 10, 2022 16:59:36 GMT
Posted: May 10, 2022 16:59:36 GMT
Here's the results of my experiment. I'm not familiar with the LYNX 5000E, but I assume that when the button on the front of the camera (with the shutter cocked) is pushed a light illuminates on the panel in the viewfinder at the top.
I cleaned the battery chamber contacts and used a good CR2 battery which fits in the chamber -- but is a little too long. I attached a copper wire from the + end of the battery to the inside edge of the battery chamber.
When I press the button on the front, I don't see any light in the viewfinder, but the battery does get warm -- so I assume the circuit is complete.
Am I proceeding correctly with this camera?
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on May 10, 2022 17:00:48 GMT
Posted: May 10, 2022 17:00:48 GMT
I've got an A544, so I'll try that next.
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on May 10, 2022 22:08:59 GMT
Posted: May 10, 2022 22:08:59 GMT
take a multimeter and measure the resistance while lighty pressing the shutter.
if the circuit is still good u should see a change. if not .. well u know then
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on May 11, 2022 0:15:06 GMT
Posted: May 11, 2022 0:15:06 GMT
Yes, the first thing I did was an OHM test. It's ZERO when the meter button is not pressed, but shows resistance when it is pressed.
I'm still looking for my A%44 battery, but I don't know what or where the camera displays something. I'll try to find a BUTKUS manual.
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on May 11, 2022 1:59:45 GMT
Last Edit: May 11, 2022 2:05:24 GMT by ridgeblue99
When pressing the Activator button, and then turning the aperture ring to full stop both ways, the Over and Under lights should come on. This is according to the 14E manual, should be the same for the 5000E. I noticed that the original batteries were two mercury RM640R 1.3v cells, which is only 2.6v total, so if you do get a couple of V640ALK's you will need to compensate for the higher voltage by reducing the ISO/ASA setting by a half stop from the box speed of the film. The best thing is to get an 18% grey card, take a meter reading from that with a known good meter, then read the card with the camera meter, adjusting the ISO setting until it matches the known meter reading.
And don't try the 544 cell, it's a 6v (sorry, I missed that while checking the forum instead of being in bed asleep). Silver oxide cells have a similar voltage curve to the mercury cells, so your best bet is to get some SR44's, and make an adapter for two of them to fit the battery well.
PF
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on May 11, 2022 15:07:13 GMT
Posted: May 11, 2022 15:07:13 GMT
I read the BUTKUS manual and I see the OVER and UNDER signal that should appear in the viewfinder. I used a CR2, as suggested above, but know that I know it needed about 3v and I gave it 6v, I'm worried that I FRIED the system.
Nothing showed up in the viewfinder and the battery got warm.
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on Jun 8, 2022 1:23:25 GMT
Posted: Jun 8, 2022 1:23:25 GMT
I read the BUTKUS manual and I see the OVER and UNDER signal that should appear in the viewfinder. I used a CR2, as suggested above, but know that I know it needed about 3v and I gave it 6v, I'm worried that I FRIED the system. Nothing showed up in the viewfinder and the battery got warm. You sure you used a CR2, because those are 3v and should not have cause a problem. Did you instead get mixed up and use the 544? PF |
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