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on Oct 11, 2021 20:33:26 GMT
Posted: Oct 11, 2021 20:33:26 GMT
Hi, i just bought a yashica electro 35 gsn as a first film camera after doing some research about it. The seller told me that the camera hasn't been used for a while because it was only stored on the cupboard as a souvenir. I checked the camera there was no cosmetic damages and it included the manual, strap and case of it. Also I checked the battery compartment showed no signs of corrosion but it smelled like vinegar and I read about it that using a vinegar as a cleaning agent on the battery compartment helps. So my problem is I fitted the a new battery with adaptor but it seems that when I pressed the battery check there's no light coming off or the meter does not work. Everything else from the camera is okay though.
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on Oct 11, 2021 21:36:42 GMT
Last Edit: Oct 11, 2021 21:38:19 GMT by lumiworx
Hello ss0210 .. and welcome to the forum. Electro 35's had several traits that plagued users over the years - and one of them was the smaller gauge wires connecting the battery to the metering circuit. Chemicals from leaking/exploded batteries could wick upline from the attachment point, and corroded the thin wire. The residue can be cleaned out of the battery holder - as you noted, with vinegar - but the wicking can continue and at some later point the wire can get brittle and eventually sever the connection. I suspect that's what happened, and removing the bottom plate of the camera can confirm if that's the case. If that's something you'd want to do to investigate the issue, keep in mind that Electro 35's (like most Japanese cameras) use JIS cross-head screws, and not a 'Phillips' style, so they can be tricky to remove. There's also the possibility of ignoring the metering issue and using a separate external meter or phone app, or just the Sunny 16 rule... assuming the camera works well otherwise. Many people do, and some prefer it instead of the Yes/No style offered in the Electro's. |
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on Oct 12, 2021 14:45:31 GMT
Posted: Oct 12, 2021 14:45:31 GMT
If that's the case then will I be able to do a DIY fix? Because from where I live analogue camera repair shops are a rarity. Also I'll just ignore the light meter then and focus on the bottom plate to ensure the camera is at least on a working order.
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on Oct 12, 2021 16:30:57 GMT
Posted: Oct 12, 2021 16:30:57 GMT
If that's the case then will I be able to do a DIY fix? Because from where I live analogue camera repair shops are a rarity. Also I'll just ignore the light meter then and focus on the bottom plate to ensure the camera is at least on a working order. I managed to get one fixed that had this very same issue, so yes it's possible. In my case the wire was severely shortened by corrosion and crumbling apart, so I ended up replacing the entire wire. I don't recall which model it was, but if memory serves me, the wire runs from the holder in the bottom, to a circuit tap under the top cap, and it snakes down the side of the camera in a slot/hole cut for it. Be prepared to replace at least a part of the wire, as corrosion kills the conductivity, so if that's what went wrong it can be repaired, assuming the rest of the metering system is fine and otherwise working. You might find these helpful... From 'Yashica Guy': www.yashica-guy.com/document/repair.htmlAnd a service manual (for a GT): learncamerarepair.com/product.php?product=219&category=2&secondary=39 |
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on Oct 13, 2021 7:28:42 GMT
Posted: Oct 13, 2021 7:28:42 GMT
I would first confirm you have a problem. The battery check lamp not working is not a reliable indicator of there being an issue. The lamp may not work because the lamp has failed (these are miniature incandescent lamps and they can fail) or, more likely, because the battery you are using isn't capable of delivering the required current. That's a problem with the batteries recommended by the people who sell the adapters - none of them are capable of delivering the current of the original battery. The replacement batteries may deliver 6V off load but the Electros take significant current and the battery voltage then drops. You might take a look at some comparisons of batteries I made here www.contax139.co.uk/replacement-battery-for-yashica-electro-35-seriesAlso, I've seen a lot of variation between the thresholds that the battery check light comes on at so it's not a very accurate indicator when it does work. In short, I would ignore the fact the battery check light doesn't come on and concentrate on whether the meter is working. Under 'normal' light conditions there's no indication if the meter is working or not. The warning lamps only come on if the light level is either too high or too low. As a check you can try covering the sensor and the red light should come on. Otherwise, listen to the shutter to see if the shutter speed changes with different light levels. With low light levels you should be able to hear the shutter opening then closing. If all you can hear is a short click regardless of light levels, then the shutter is just running at its top speed which indicates lack of power. Also note, the camera has no manual shutter speeds so it's not possible to use it with no power. |
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on Oct 15, 2021 11:45:39 GMT
Posted: Oct 15, 2021 11:45:39 GMT
The battery check and the meter/shutter circuits are separate. Take off the base plate and look at the chrome ring around the battery well opening. There are two red wires attached to the ring. The short one that leads to the little circuit board is the power wire for the battery test circuit. Check that the short wire is soldered well to the ring. If it is loose or broken, re-solder it. If the battery check light continues to fail to come on after that, the problem may be with the small circuit board, the wiring from the circuit board to the test button and the bulb, the test button, or the bulb. Nine times out of ten though (not an exact statistic but my impression after working on many Electro 35s over the years) the problem will be with that solder connection to the chrome ring.
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