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on Mar 21, 2021 18:04:31 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 21, 2021 18:07:44 GMT by moggi1964
I love the lens on my Minister 700 and wanted to be sure I have at least one Yashinon lens for my SLR/mirrorless use. This one was inexpensive and focus and aperture work smoothly. I've only carried out a couple of test shots so need to get out with it more over the next couple of weeks. The problem is that once I stick the Tamton SP90mm F/2.5 on the camera I am loath to take it off. Sorry Yashi. I think I'll be looking out for a 28 or 35mm to add to the collection so first thing to do is scour this forum. Here's a Robin that sat still for one of my test shots. I haven't taken the time to take out the green fringing.
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on Mar 21, 2021 19:08:58 GMT
Posted: Mar 21, 2021 19:08:58 GMT
Hi moggi1964 , What a delightful shot of the robin - makes you wonder what he's thinking... The purple and green is easily removed in post-production which will leave you with a very memorable photo. Well done! And yes, that Tamron lens is a real gem, especially when used with its dedicated extender to take it to a true 1:1.
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on Mar 21, 2021 21:06:21 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 21, 2021 21:06:44 GMT by xkaes
I've often looked for the Tamron 180mm f2.8 -- as well as the Tamron 70-150mm f2.8 SF zoom -- but never found either at a half-way decent price, but who knows??? So how does one get rid of the color fringing? No need to go into lengthy details!!
OH, by the way, great shot.
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on Mar 22, 2021 1:58:11 GMT
Posted: Mar 22, 2021 1:58:11 GMT
moggi1964 ... You've reminded me that I have to test the very same lens. I got it a few months ago and it's been miserable weather overall to get outside where I can have some subject distance to give it a proper run-through. I did pop it on a digital body quickly to get a peek, and I like what I saw from that - but I don't remember if there was any CA issues of note, but it did remind me of a ML 135 in general for contrast, color, and detail. From your test shot, I'd say it's well worth a little PP work, plus a few more tries stopped down to see if the CA goes away at some point. For the wide end you're looking for - would it be in M42 or C/Y? There's a notable difference in what you'll get between the 2 mount types at the same focal lengths. So how does one get rid of the color fringing? No need to go into lengthy details!! If you save RAW files in-camera and use Lightroom or DxO and several others, there's usually a toggle to get rid of it automatically, and then tweakable for fine adjustments. You can do the same with JPG files in any of the same RAW processors, and everything from PhotoShop (CS2 or higher), PS Elements, on down to Affinity Photo (50% off at the moment - $24.99) on the commercial end. There's lots in OpenSource tools too... browse alternativeto.net/software/dxo-photolab/ for a bunch of free/paid types for multiple OS's. I've tried most of them, and use several regularly, and it can be 100% corrected in under 30 seconds. I'll post details and a how-to if it will help get anyone started. For film, I'd suggest scanning to digital files and use any JPG image processor that you'd pick above -or- shoot in B&W where it's often irrelevant. Otherwise I'd assume the lab that does your prints might have an analogue solution. biggles3 ... My guess would be: "Again? Somebody needs a model release first".
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on Mar 23, 2021 14:30:15 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 23, 2021 14:31:28 GMT by moggi1964
Thank you all for your thoughtful and kind comments. The image makes the perfect backdrop for my Zoom sessions as the way I have my camera set up the Robin seems to be peering over my shoulder to see what's going on on screen biggles3, I couldn't track down the extension tube that was made for the SP90mm (not at a reasonable price anyway) but did find the 01F teleconverter that was also made for it and that's on its way. £18 shipped xkaes, I recently also picked up a Tamron SP28-80mm for my Pentax ME Super and am shooting some Fomapan 200 B&W at the moment with it. (I also have a Tamron 35-70mm 17A but I managed to break it when trying to fix it ) lumiworx, as you rightly say some PP work and I definitely need to start testing out the range of apertures to see where the best operating window is. Want to bet it's F/5.6 to F/8 I look forward to hearing your thoughts on your copy when the time comes. I'll likely be looking for M42 for the wide end but happy to get some C/Y adapters if there are a couple of lenses I should be considering. Love to hear your thoughts. The weather has not been kind to Portra 400 of late so I've not managed to complete my first roll on the newly serviced Minister 700. I've got exposed rolls queueing up to go to the lab (Ilford XP2 -120 and a Fujifilm Nexia 200 - APS and a Fomapan 200 - 35mm) so I am hoping for a little sunshine in the next few days.
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on Mar 23, 2021 14:57:00 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 23, 2021 14:57:39 GMT by bp_reid
I couldn't track down the extension tube that was made for the SP90mm (not at a reasonable price anyway) but did find the 01F teleconverter that was also made for it and that's on its way. £18 shipped A little heads up on the 01F. Optically a good copy will be among the best 2x converters of it's era but check carefully for haze in the rear group when it arrives - these converters have a lens in the rear pair which frequently gets cloudy and will reduce contrast and sharpness. What's really frustrating is that the affected element is very easy to remove but simply doesn't clean off as it's a kind of surface pitting.
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on Mar 23, 2021 15:23:05 GMT
Posted: Mar 23, 2021 15:23:05 GMT
I couldn't track down the extension tube that was made for the SP90mm (not at a reasonable price anyway) but did find the 01F teleconverter that was also made for it and that's on its way. £18 shipped A little heads up on the 01F. Optically a good copy will be among the best 2x converters of it's era but check carefully for haze in the rear group when it arrives - these converters have a lens in the rear pair which frequently gets cloudy and will reduce contrast and sharpness. What's really frustrating is that the affected element is very easy to remove but simply doesn't clean off as it's a kind of surface pitting. Thank you for the heads-up, I'll check that on arrival. It's on a 30 day no quibble return policy so I can always return it. It was from a charity shop and for £18 I think I would just keep it anyway for spare parts. I'm wondering if it does indeed have the hazy element, if I removed all the elements would it simply replicate the extender that I couldn't find for a good price. I suspect the length of the two 'bodies' are different to account for the glass but I'll double check. Tamron 18F extension tube on ebay USA is only $30 + $36 shipping plus import fees -
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on Mar 23, 2021 16:04:33 GMT
Posted: Mar 23, 2021 16:04:33 GMT
I'm not sure that a stripped back 01F would really work as an extension tube but have never tried! I have a good copy, but it took about 3-4 attempts to get there.
As an aside, there is also the rare and pricey 200F. I'd like to find out that is prone to the haze problem as I'm pretty sure all the 01Fs will get it at some point.
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on Mar 23, 2021 21:07:58 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 23, 2021 21:09:43 GMT by xkaes
Thank you all for your thoughtful and kind comments. xkaes, I recently also picked up a Tamron SP28-80mm for my Pentax ME Super and am shooting some Fomapan 200 B&W at the moment with it. (I also have a Tamron 35-70mm 17A but I managed to break it when trying to fix it )
I'm "stuck" with a Tokina 28-85mm f4. It's pretty big -- 72mm filter -- and it's a two-touch zoom, but it has a constant aperture, and focuses to 2.5'. I was once tempted by a Sigma 28-84(!!!)mm but it's also a two-touch zoom despite the variable aperture. For me to go with a variable aperture, it has to have one-touch convenience, such as with my Sigma 21-35mm zoom.
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on Mar 24, 2021 17:23:58 GMT
Posted: Mar 24, 2021 17:23:58 GMT
A little heads up on the 01F. Optically a good copy will be among the best 2x converters of it's era but check carefully for haze in the rear group when it arrives - these converters have a lens in the rear pair which frequently gets cloudy and will reduce contrast and sharpness. What's really frustrating is that the affected element is very easy to remove but simply doesn't clean off as it's a kind of surface pitting. Thank you for the heads-up, I'll check that on arrival. It's on a 30 day no quibble return policy so I can always return it. It was from a charity shop and for £18 I think I would just keep it anyway for spare parts. I'm wondering if it does indeed have the hazy element, if I removed all the elements would it simply replicate the extender that I couldn't find for a good price. I suspect the length of the two 'bodies' are different to account for the glass but I'll double check. Tamron 18F extension tube on ebay USA is only $30 + $36 shipping plus import fees - Well it arrived and seems clear so that is a bonus. I've attached it to the SP90 and will have a play round in the sunshine tomorrow. Turns out I paid £13 for it; it even comes with the bottom and top caps and the case so I consider that a bargain
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on Mar 25, 2021 13:54:10 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 25, 2021 13:55:40 GMT by moggi1964
I took my first outdoor 1:1 image EVER! I needed something that would stay still in order for me to get the hang of it. So shot this padlock at F/10 using a 2 sec delay on the shutter. I appreciate it isn't a challenging subject but I think it's pretty sharp which is good enough for me right now This is SOOC jpg shot at 1/80sec and ISO250.
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on Mar 26, 2021 7:50:26 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 26, 2021 11:53:16 GMT by lumiworx
It's warmer outside, but still on the dreary and grey side. I thought I'd at least do a couple of inside tests to look at the 135 in more detail with subjects I know. Everything was shot wide open at f/2.8. My guess is that CA will probably amplify itself more when shooting over longer distances, but my copy isn't showing it inside until I zoom to a 1:1 crop. It's still easily fixed in post, so not necessarily an issue on digital, and likely will be minimal on film at full frame sizes... unless there's a large shift at some of the farther distances that will show up once I'm outdoors. Until I get out there to confirm, it seems like there's a definite difference in our lens samples, moggi1964 . CA isn't the only thing, and color rendering differences can be another casualty. Reds and blues look accurate to the eye in comparison on most tele lenses, but greens, oranges, and purples seem to suffer - or sometimes they can be outright wrong. There's not much in the way of greens or purples in these test shots - if any - but what colors are there, look very accurate. I didn't see any issues with resolution, sharpness or contrast so far, and at first blush, the DS-M seems better than the ML series (the 135, or 135c) with all three characteristics. Tests were done on a Sony FX-3, so they're sensor cropped. No PP except minor color balance correction (i'm still in the process of replacing some of my room lights with CRI 95+ Daylight LED's) and noise reduction. Full frame shots, then a 1:1 crop on these 2 inside shots. testbed.lumiworx.com/#16167370296430One more note on the DS-M lens line... I just got a rare 200mm, but unfortunately it's overrun with fungus. I still haven't even taken a test shot after finishing the initial cleanup, and I'm not really in a mad rush to pull it apart until I know how to disassemble it properly. Sad that it's in such bad shape.
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on Mar 26, 2021 8:57:02 GMT
Posted: Mar 26, 2021 8:57:02 GMT
Those shots do look good and the differences in lens characteristics is very evident. I'll be interested in seeing if that continues when you've shot outdoors.
I watch the auctions a lot and it is sad to see how many lenses have been left to deteriorate. Of course, that doesn't mean they are lost but it is a brave person who takes apart a lens without some direction on disassembly (as I found to my cost when a spring shot out of a Tamron and in some trick of physics, disappeared into thin air).
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on Mar 28, 2021 20:07:30 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 28, 2021 20:17:26 GMT by xkaes
Just an after thought, I have a TON of robins in my area, but none have the rufous above the beak. So for me that is nice to see -- a real treat, or should I say TWEET!!! But birds, like people, vary around the globe. As to the chromatic aberration, I've got to assume that this is due to digital magnification. It can be removed, as others have mentioned, but a good tele lens should not show this at all.
I've got some Rufous-sided Towees, and Scrub-jays that I want to "capture" with my Yashica (AKA, Spiratone 500mm), and Osawa (AKA, Tokina) 650mm lenses.
We will see. I bet there in no chromatic aberration.
They need to show up when I'm awake -- no small task!!!
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on Mar 28, 2021 20:16:02 GMT
Posted: Mar 28, 2021 20:16:02 GMT
Just an after thought, I have a TON of robins in my area, but none have the rufous above the beak. So for me that is nice to see -- a real treat, or should a say TWEET!!! But birds, like people, vary around the globe. As to the chromatic aberration, I've got to assume that this is due to digital magnification. It can can be removed, as others have mentioned, but a good tele lens should not show this at all. Nature is fascinating. The Robins in New Jersey were enormous compared to ours here in the UK. I think I need to shoot some more images outside and see what I get. We are in for some better weather over the next few days. I'll take the Super Ozeck 135mm out with me and shoot the same scene and see how they compare. I'm following a few auctions currently so there is a very good chance I'll end up with a few more 135's to test out.
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