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on Feb 16, 2021 2:01:13 GMT
Posted: Feb 16, 2021 2:01:13 GMT
I just got a Yashica T AF, and it seems to be working fine after some tinkering, except for the focusing. The focus is locked on infinity. Doesn’t matter what I put in front of the camera, the infinity icon pops up in the viewfinder.
I want to try and clean the focus sensor although it looks clean, but I don’t have access to it because of the clear shield in place. I did clean the clear shield, but that did nothing. I feel like pulling off the face and cleaning the sensor, but I’m also afraid of breaking the camera.
Can someone advice me what to do?
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on Feb 16, 2021 9:14:36 GMT
Last Edit: Feb 16, 2021 9:22:23 GMT by lumiworx
Welcome to the forum, mike ... Point-n-shoots can be a little finicky in how they function when compared to other body types, so I suppose it might be reasonable to rule out their operational quirks before popping them open. I have a manual for my T AF-D, but looking through the similar section of the T2/T2D manual posted online by Mike Butkus, there are a couple of things that spring up. There are 3 distinct distance scales, and the first 2 of them are very shallow with a fixed lens at f/3.5. Focusing is not really too much different than zone focusing that's electronically assisted. The closest range is 1-2 meters, the next is 2-4 meters, and the last is 4 meters to infinity. The point of focus is also very small (the ◯ area in the viewfinder), and the original T's don't have AE/AF-Lock like the later models, so that might be troublesome. The bad news for me, is that mine is also exhibiting the same behaviour as yours. Adding to that, is that I can't get the flash to charge to see if there's some other circuitry involved that prevents the focus from kicking in. New alkalines or fresh rechargables will trip the shutter and advance some dummy film to the next frame, but I too am stuck on infinity focus. It's been a long time sice I've had this camera out, so I'll dig in a bit and see if I can find out what's causing the issue. My battery contacts are a little grimey, so that could be lowering the voltage level enough that certain things won't perform as expected. A thorough cleaning with vinegar should fix that, so I'll get that done later today and test again. The amount of available light after dark may not be enough to allow autofocus to read contrast values and change focus too, so I'll see if daylight allows for flashless operation with proper autofocus, since my flash refuses to charge. Can you get your flash to charge, and turn on the ready light? Does the shutter trip at all, and will the film advance. Is the plastic lens shield retracted? It probably won't allow any further operations if it won't slide out of the way. A full 'click' is sometimes needed to open it.
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on Feb 16, 2021 11:47:01 GMT
Last Edit: Feb 16, 2021 11:47:55 GMT by mike
Welcome to the forum, mike ... Point-n-shoots can be a little finicky in how they function when compared to other body types, so I suppose it might be reasonable to rule out their operational quirks before popping them open. I have a manual for my T AF-D, but looking through the similar section of the T2/T2D manual posted online by Mike Butkus, there are a couple of things that spring up. There are 3 distinct distance scales, and the first 2 of them are very shallow with a fixed lens at f/3.5. Focusing is not really too much different than zone focusing that's electronically assisted. The closest range is 1-2 meters, the next is 2-4 meters, and the last is 4 meters to infinity. The point of focus is also very small (the ◯ area in the viewfinder), and the original T's don't have AE/AF-Lock like the later models, so that might be troublesome. The bad news for me, is that mine is also exhibiting the same behaviour as yours. Adding to that, is that I can't get the flash to charge to see if there's some other circuitry involved that prevents the focus from kicking in. New alkalines or fresh rechargables will trip the shutter and advance some dummy film to the next frame, but I too am stuck on infinity focus. It's been a long time sice I've had this camera out, so I'll dig in a bit and see if I can find out what's causing the issue. My battery contacts are a little grimey, so that could be lowering the voltage level enough that certain things won't perform as expected. A thorough cleaning with vinegar should fix that, so I'll get that done later today and test again. The amount of available light after dark may not be enough to allow autofocus to read contrast values and change focus too, so I'll see if daylight allows for flashless operation with proper autofocus, since my flash refuses to charge. Can you get your flash to charge, and turn on the ready light? Does the shutter trip at all, and will the film advance. Is the plastic lens shield retracted? It probably won't allow any further operations if it won't slide out of the way. A full 'click' is sometimes needed to open it. Yes please let me know if any of that works. My camera has a fresh pair of batteries, but I’m also going to clean out the terminals and test that out. It’s funny that when I first got the camera it wasn’t working at all. Everything you asked at the end was going on. The flash would charge, but not go off, the film would advance 2 frames at a time, and the plastic lens shield would not retract. I tinkered with the camera after watching a YouTube video of a guy repairing his Yashica T which lens shield wouldn’t retract. And somehow I fixed those issues. I’m doubtful my “fix” will last but now the flash charges and goes off, the lens shield retracts, and the film advances 1 frame. The only issue I have now is the focus not working. I guess I could use the camera strictly for landscapes, but of course that’s not ideal.
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on Feb 16, 2021 18:10:27 GMT
Last Edit: Feb 17, 2021 6:52:51 GMT by lumiworx
I may have to try some further tinkering. Cleaning the contacts wasn't sufficient, and it needed some tin foil to get a better connection for full voltage to charge the flash. I now get a single shot - with or without flash - but once triggered, the lens shield stays open, the film won't advance, and still no change on the infinity icon. I have to rewind with the back open to catch the film, and reset the camera with an extra 'smack' to get the shield back in place before I can rinse and repeat.
As this model has the date back, there's an electrical connection between the back and the body. I'm unsure if the back's dead battery is influencing anything to contribute to the issue, but I need a new supply of the flat CR batteries anyway, so I'll get some replacements to check that part of the equation too.
Having plenty of daylight wasn't helpful with kicking focus out of the infinity range, so that's not relavent. Either way, there's more to do before a fix is in.
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on Feb 16, 2021 22:37:31 GMT
Last Edit: Feb 17, 2021 6:16:14 GMT by mike
Considering how popular these cameras are, it’s a shame I can’t find someone to repair it or even a YouTube video. I paid $50 for it on ShopGoodwill.com, and I’m grateful now for not bidding over $100 on a T4.
I put in a battery to replace the dead battery on the data back, but that didn’t do anything. I didn’t expect it to really. I also changed the batteries on the camera. They were nearly new, and put in brand new ones, and that did nothing. I’m tempted to remove the front cover and wipe the sensor, but I don’t want to break it.
The light meter works at least. The flash icon turns off at night when I point the camera to the ceiling light.
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on Feb 20, 2021 22:30:33 GMT
Posted: Feb 20, 2021 22:30:33 GMT
P&S cameras are the true orphans of the photography world. You normally can't get parts unless you buy another complete camera, and even then it might have the same issue which could be systemic. Most of the repair places won't work on them because they are uneconomical to repair. And with age the body plastics and circuit boards start degrading. It's a crap shoot buying one, and then you might have to get a few of the same model to be able to keep using it for several years. A lot of them were not made to be serviced either, so when you open one up there is the chance of breaking a mounting tab or something else, or have parts go flying before you can determine where they belong. I've had enough nice P&S cameras fail on me mid-roll to where I just don't find them worth the trouble anymore. I was lucky though in that I found most of mine before the days where every camera winds up on some auction site. Used to pick them up for two or three dollars each at the charity shops.
The bigger problem with the high value P&S cams is they were not made in the same quantities as the lower prices models, so as they break down and get abandoned there are fewer available, which leads to sellers putting up broken units for sale, scamming the buyer. Goodwill is notorious for stating they didn't have batteries available to test a camera, when in actuality they couldn't get the old corroded ones out of the camera. At least if you buy from eBay there is some recourse for the buyer.
PF
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on Feb 21, 2021 4:09:51 GMT
Posted: Feb 21, 2021 4:09:51 GMT
P&S cameras are the true orphans of the photography world. You normally can't get parts unless you buy another complete camera, and even then it might have the same issue which could be systemic. Most of the repair places won't work on them because they are uneconomical to repair. And with age the body plastics and circuit boards start degrading. It's a crap shoot buying one, and then you might have to get a few of the same model to be able to keep using it for several years. A lot of them were not made to be serviced either, so when you open one up there is the chance of breaking a mounting tab or something else, or have parts go flying before you can determine where they belong. I've had enough nice P&S cameras fail on me mid-roll to where I just don't find them worth the trouble anymore. I was lucky though in that I found most of mine before the days where every camera winds up on some auction site. Used to pick them up for two or three dollars each at the charity shops. The bigger problem with the high value P&S cams is they were not made in the same quantities as the lower prices models, so as they break down and get abandoned there are fewer available, which leads to sellers putting up broken units for sale, scamming the buyer. Goodwill is notorious for stating they didn't have batteries available to test a camera, when in actuality they couldn't get the old corroded ones out of the camera. At least if you buy from eBay there is some recourse for the buyer. PF I agree with you completely. I do feel like I’m wasting money buying expensive point and shoots, but I fall for the hype. I already have some good working point and shoots that can take a photo just as good as an expensive Yashica T4, but I still want the T4. I just can’t help it. I’ve bought maybe 4 cameras from goodwill, and only 1 worked fine, and that was a Minolta x700, the rest being P&S’s. And I believe you, I’m sure they don’t want to deal with corrosion or faulty cameras so they just sell everything as-is. As much cameras as they sell it shouldn’t be hard for someone to go out and buy batteries to test them. I think I’m going to settle on the cameras I have now, and make use of them. I find myself takings risks on goodwill knowing I have good working cameras at home.
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on Feb 21, 2021 15:11:03 GMT
Last Edit: Feb 21, 2021 15:28:05 GMT by lumiworx
At this point I'm on hold with the AF-D, and since I got it primarily as a 'photo model', I never really expected it to work and was rather surprised when it did. I think I can echo PF's sentiment on their short-time expectations and an almost certain failing within a minimal amount of time - and that's certainly the case for me with the one I ended up with. It was tucked away a little over a year ago and still looks brand new, but is no longer working as it was.
If I can offer one comment on shopgoodwill purchases. I use their auction quite a bit, and I've had very good luck in getting working gear, however I limit my interest to items that come from either Seattle or San Francisco. Those 2 locations usually end up with some higher end stuff in great condition, and there are at least some knowledgable people who do some detailed tests on what they list. Everything I've gotten from either place has been spot-on to their descriptions, and in some cases, they were better than described. Both locations have listed Leica's, Contax's of several eras, medium and larger format bodies or sets, and even binoculars and microscopes from Leica and Zeiss. Any of their other locations I tend to assume they'll end up being spares or repairs, and that's also proven to be accurate from my history over the last few years.
EDIT to add:: It might not be quite as pocketable and not AF, but consider a Yashica FX-D, FX-103, or even an FX-3, and pair it with a Zeiss 45mm f/2.8 as a slightly larger alternative to the T or T2/3/4/5 but still very light weight.. There are plenty of parts and/or replacements, and they're far more reliable too.
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on Feb 22, 2021 3:26:47 GMT
Last Edit: Feb 22, 2021 3:47:13 GMT by mike
It might not be quite as pocketable and not AF, but consider a Yashica FX-D, FX-103, or even an FX-3, and pair it with a Zeiss 45mm f/2.8 as a slightly larger alternative to the T or T2/3/4/5 but still very light weight.. There are plenty of parts and/or replacements, and they're far more reliable too. I’ll definitely look into the Yashica FX-D. All I wanted after all is a Zeiss lens. Thanks for the recommendation. Any reason as to why you would recommend a 45mm lens over a 35mm?
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on Feb 22, 2021 22:34:55 GMT
Posted: Feb 22, 2021 22:34:55 GMT
... Any reason as to why you would recommend a 45mm lens over a 35mm? I was thinking in terms of compactness, the 45 is a true pancake... The standard wide lenses are probably double the size or more in height/depth, and can add a little more weight. The exceptions would be the (much pricier) Distagons in 28mm f/2 (the "Hollywood"), or the 35mm f/1.4, which are more than double the size and weight, so the 'compact' factor doesn't apply to them, but if you can get past the size and weight, they'll gob-smack you with image goodness! I don't have any experience with the 35mm 2.8, but the 45mm and 28mm 2.8's are great with their own 'wow' factor, and I think the later MMG or MMJ versions to be superior to the AE's because of the updated coatings. If you're up for even wider lenses, the Yashica ML 21mm f/3.5, or for a chunk more cash, the Zeiss 18mm f/4, can knock a few pairs of socks off too.
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on Feb 25, 2021 2:02:22 GMT
Posted: Feb 25, 2021 2:02:22 GMT
Yeah, the 45 Tessar paired with an FX-3 (any flavor) makes for a nice, light outfit, and it's all mechanical.
PF
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on Mar 3, 2021 7:28:23 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 3, 2021 7:29:11 GMT by mike
Yeah, the 45 Tessar paired with an FX-3 (any flavor) makes for a nice, light outfit, and it's all mechanical. PF What do you think of the Contax 167 or 139 bodies? I see they’re similar to the Yashica in price, and I would imagine the built quality might be better seeing it’s the Contax line? Also, for the Yashica T, I have a roll in it, but I think I might just throw the camera out. A second set of brand new AA batteries just drained. The camera will drain a set in a day or 2, on standby. I do have rechargeable batteries I can try on it to finish up the roll, but I feel like just trashing it at this point.
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on Mar 3, 2021 11:55:47 GMT
Posted: Mar 3, 2021 11:55:47 GMT
The 167 is a really sturdy camera with more features than the 139, however to take full advantage of program modes and the like you need MM lenses which have a green minimum aperture. It also has a spot meter which is handy. On the down side I find the controls a wee bit fiddly.
Personally I find the 139 & 159 the best compliments to the 45 as they are really small and light. The 139 is easily available, has all the basic features needed in a film SLR and seems to be pretty reliable. The 159 has similar features but adds a faster shutter and it was the first Contax with a program mode.
The 159 is may own favourite small Contax but it's less classic looking than the 139 and has a reputation for unreliability (which stems from a little component in the mirror box that gets gummed up - not too hard to clean but it does mean getting into the body of the camera.
If you want to spend a bit more at some point, the Aria is superbly specced, really compact but, arguably a bit over-priced.
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on Mar 3, 2021 23:27:03 GMT
Last Edit: Mar 3, 2021 23:28:24 GMT by lumiworx
It might help to identify what features are needed, since both Yashica and Contax bodies in C/Y mount have a somewhat targeted user type they were designed for. Identifying things like highest shutter speed, ASA range, direct drive motors vs thumb levers, programming/automation features vs manual, common AA/AAA or special battery types, electronic vs manual vs hybrid shutters, AE lock vs nothing, etcetera, will help with picking a body that can tick all the right boxes. If specific features are requirements, it will eliminate those bodies that don't have them.
One other mention of using MMG or MMJ lenses versus the earlier AE types... Yashica bodies won't need to use MM lenses for their built-in automation, but Contax bodies can't use any automation they offer without using MM lenses. There is a way to bypass that issue and 'hack' any of the automated bodies, but it's not always foolproof or trouble free. I'd still suggest MM over AE types for their coating advances, regardless of what Yashica or Contax body they're on.
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on Mar 4, 2021 6:45:30 GMT
Posted: Mar 4, 2021 6:45:30 GMT
It might help to identify what features are needed, since both Yashica and Contax bodies in C/Y mount have a somewhat targeted user type they were designed for. Identifying things like highest shutter speed, ASA range, direct drive motors vs thumb levers, programming/automation features vs manual, common AA/AAA or special battery types, electronic vs manual vs hybrid shutters, AE lock vs nothing, etcetera, will help with picking a body that can tick all the right boxes. If specific features are requirements, it will eliminate those bodies that don't have them. One other mention of using MMG or MMJ lenses versus the earlier AE types... Yashica bodies won't need to use MM lenses for their built-in automation, but Contax bodies can't use any automation they offer without using MM lenses. There is a way to bypass that issue and 'hack' any of the automated bodies, but it's not always foolproof or trouble free. I'd still suggest MM over AE types for their coating advances, regardless of what Yashica or Contax body they're on. Honestly I just want the Zeiss glass on a budget. I have a Minolta X-700 and AE1 that I know deliver great pictures, and I love to use the program mode on, but I just want to own a Zeiss glass. So really I want something with a program mode. I narrowed it down to the Yashica FX3 and the Contax 167mt, as they are within my budget. As for the lens, ideally I want a 85mm down the line for portraits, as family portraits is what I’m going after. But I’ll be picking up the pancake 45mm for now. I try and convince myself that I don’t need another SLR, but otherwise I feel I’ll keep throwing money away on auction sites buying DOA Zeiss glass point and shoots until I get one that works.
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