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on Jan 4, 2021 19:32:04 GMT
Posted: Jan 4, 2021 19:32:04 GMT
This morning I found an IC Lynx 14e in a camera shop at a local antiques mall--for $4.00 US. Looking it over in the store I saw that the shutter was sticking, but I bought it anyway, thinking it was worth $4.00 even if it turned out to be a bookend or doorstop. After getting it home I found that the battery compartment was clean and the meter was working, and I loosened up the shutter, which tells me that a good cleaning will make it reliable.
The worst thing wrong with the camera is that one of the five iris blades sticks between f2 and f1.4 (does that make it an f1.52 lens?), so while I'm cleaning the shutter I'll have to check that out. Advice on working on the diaphragm on this camera would be welcomed--particularly what not to do.
Oh, yes . . . the "Lynx 14" logo on the front is missing. Does anyone have a logo strip from a parts camera? Failing that, could someone photograph that logo for me to print out?
NP
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on Jan 6, 2021 3:20:39 GMT
Posted: Jan 6, 2021 3:20:39 GMT
This morning I found an IC Lynx 14e in a camera shop at a local antiques mall--for $4.00 US. Looking it over in the store I saw that the shutter was sticking, but I bought it anyway, thinking it was worth $4.00 even if it turned out to be a bookend or doorstop. After getting it home I found that the battery compartment was clean and the meter was working, and I loosened up the shutter, which tells me that a good cleaning will make it reliable. The worst thing wrong with the camera is that one of the five iris blades sticks between f2 and f1.4 (does that make it an f1.52 lens?), so while I'm cleaning the shutter I'll have to check that out. Advice on working on the diaphragm on this camera would be welcomed--particularly what not to do. Oh, yes . . . the "Lynx 14" logo on the front is missing. Does anyone have a logo strip from a parts camera? Failing that, could someone photograph that logo for me to print out? NP I'll see if I can dig mine out. Can't remember if it's in the repair bin, or storage box. At worse that aperture blade could be worn out at the pivot hole, but it could be it's just jumped loose from the actuator rack due to a drop. I might even have two of them now that I think about it, the second one could be defined as a parts donor. Been so long since I even looked at them.
PF
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on Jan 6, 2021 16:59:41 GMT
Posted: Jan 6, 2021 16:59:41 GMT
I'll see if I can dig mine out. Can't remember if it's in the repair bin, or storage box. At worse that aperture blade could be worn out at the pivot hole, but it could be it's just jumped loose from the actuator rack due to a drop. I might even have two of them now that I think about it, the second one could be defined as a parts donor. Been so long since I even looked at them.
PF
Thanks for checking, ridgeblue99. Don't worry about it if you can't find the aperture blades. I've cleaned the shutter, and everything in it is working smoothly except the Bulb actuator, which won't stay in its slot in the speed plate. I must be missing a spring that got knocked off its post. If I can't find it I won't worry about it. I won't be using B on this camera anyway, and the slow speeds, which I might use, seem to be accurate. NP
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on Jan 6, 2021 22:55:01 GMT
Last Edit: Jan 6, 2021 22:55:43 GMT by nrparsons
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Status: Failed treatment for L.B.A. and G.A.S,
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on Jan 7, 2021 1:09:26 GMT
Posted: Jan 7, 2021 1:09:26 GMT
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on Jan 8, 2021 2:59:36 GMT
Posted: Jan 8, 2021 2:59:36 GMT
They are such a lovely camera with that honking big 1.4 out front. I really need to clean mine again as it started sticking again after a few months.
PF
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on Jan 8, 2021 13:24:09 GMT
Posted: Jan 8, 2021 13:24:09 GMT
Lumiworx, yes, a hi-res photo of the Lynx-14E logo would be most welcome! NP
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on Jan 8, 2021 20:39:42 GMT
Posted: Jan 8, 2021 20:39:42 GMT
nrparsons ... I sent a link to the image in a PM. It's suprising to see how bad a cleaning job I've done until I've pulled out a macro to shoot some real closeups!
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on Jan 21, 2021 23:36:07 GMT
Last Edit: Jan 21, 2021 23:36:58 GMT by nrparsons
Two weeks later and I have buttoned up the lens of the 14E. I didn't dig down to the diaphragm blades after all. I'm afraid my hands are too shaky to take on those delicate blades. While cleaning the shutter I managed to dismount the spring holding the B lever inward against its detente in the speed plate, and I wasn't able to retrieve it from under the lever, so the camera doesn't have a bulb setting now. With the rest of the shutter working perfectly, and deciding to let well enough alone, I closed up the lens. I don't use B anyway.
I still need to clean the rangefinder, but I don't have a spanner to unscrew the advance lever cap screw. It's too tight for my tweezers or dividers to twist loose. It is a lefty-loosey screw, isn't it? Looks like I'll have to grind down a cheap screwdriver to make a tool.
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on Jan 22, 2021 17:29:11 GMT
Posted: Jan 22, 2021 17:29:11 GMT
Good to hear that it's back together and working well. I too have a few miles on my fingers and eyes, so I know the feeling about stopping at the right time.
I tried a gentle nudge on the 14 and 14E spanner caps, and neither one budged one micron, so I don't have a confirmation on them being lefty or righty. They are far too easy to snap off when one doesn't know the correct direction to twist, so It's one of the things I don't tempt with fate until I have to, and won't push my luck with a bad guess when the advance still functions. I'll do some searching to see if there's any clues on direction.
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on Jan 23, 2021 22:44:53 GMT
Last Edit: Jan 23, 2021 22:46:14 GMT by nrparsons
I sometimes forget how much valuable information can be found in YashicaGuy's website. He has instructions on servicing Lynxes, including this: "The first step is to remove the Film Advance Lever. The safest way to remove this without scratching up the fittings, is the use of an Adjustable Snap Ring Pliers. These pliers are sold at Auto supply and hardware stores and are used to handle "C" clips and should come with a set of several size points, both straight and angled. The points are interchangeable and the set required is .039 inch. Note the large head and tiny thread of this screw being held by the tool in the image. Too much force can easily snap the head off the stem. If it won't budge, apply a soldering gun to the screw head for a minute or so to break the bond. Turn counter-clockwise to remove the pin head screw. Little effort is required." (http://www.yashica-guy.com/document/lynxfix.html)
I have both snap ring pliers and a soldering iron, so this is my project for tomorrow.
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on Jan 26, 2021 2:50:38 GMT
Posted: Jan 26, 2021 2:50:38 GMT
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on Jan 26, 2021 16:47:40 GMT
Posted: Jan 26, 2021 16:47:40 GMT
Wow, thanks, I just bookmarked that!
Michael
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on Jan 27, 2021 16:10:51 GMT
Posted: Jan 27, 2021 16:10:51 GMT
Wow, thanks, I just bookmarked that!
Michael
Yes, very helpful. Thank you! I've repaired lots of Electro 35s, so I have the basics down, but every model differs. I'm afraid someone in the past has torqued the rewind lever cap screw on my camera until it has welded itself to the rewind shaft--or perhaps they superglued it. I can't get the screw out, even with the help of heat from a soldering iron. I'm afraid I'll either twist the head off or strip the spanner holes with my ring pliers. So I'm leaving the rangefinder uncleaned. It's cloudy but usable.
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